Even though this mountain trail is near the prime tourist sites in Toucheng, it isn't very well known. Nor is it particularly beautiful or dramatic. However, this ordinariness is the trail's main charm. Because the trail isn't very popular, it feels more natural than the major tourist trails. It's an extremely convenient way to get into the mountains for a taste of typical Yilan rainforest. It is a short walk from Waiao beach and Wushigang, two of the most popular tourist spots in Yilan. So it's possible to take a walk in the mountains, then go back to the beach and take a dip in the ocean to cool off afterward. There is also an air conditioned coffee shop in the beach visitors center where you can rest and cool off after your hike.
The trail theoretically runs for about two and a half kilometers, but the final kilometer has been paved and made into a rough concrete road which is completely devoid of charm. So the trail is now only about 1.6 kilometers long. Round trip takes about 1 hour 45 minutes. The trail is pretty basic - mostly just a dirt path. In some places you have to climb up or down slippery mossy stones. Given the condition of the trail, you should definitely wear appropriate trekking shoes. You will probably also want to avoid coming here after a heavy rain, as I imagine that it gets very muddy.
As you start to ascend, you will have a superb view of the ocean. Because the mountains are right next to the sea, you can get a fantastic close-up panorama of the ocean, rocky beaches, and 
Guishan Island from here. After you get to the top of the first mountain and start going inland, you find yourself in a very quiet subtropical rainforest. The trail runs next to a stream, which is very pretty in spots. Unfortunately some selfish people living downhill have run water pipes through the forest to get free spring water from the source, and these pipes mar the scenery for much of the way.
At the top the trail exits the forest and you find yourself out in the open. If you like you can keep going and walk down the concrete road, but there isn't much to see. The only reason to go forward is to visit a little shrine which dates from the Japanese colonial period, which is located just beyond the forest. Also, the concrete road runs next to a stream which has places where you can bathe in summer. It's a good place to soak in the cold mountain water on a hot afternoon.
The entrance to the trail is easy to find. Directly across the street from the large yellow visitor's center at Waiao beach, north of Toucheng town, is a little road which passes under the railroad tracks. After you go under the tracks you will see two temples. The big temple is called Jietian Gong 接天宮. There is a big brown map of the Shikong trail on the right side of the temple, and 
signs in Chinese point the way to the trail head. You can park next to the temples and start walking north next to the tracks, or you can just walk over from the beach. The path along the train tracks which leads to the trail head doesn't look too promising - it becomes very narrow and you will wonder if you've made a mistake. Don't worry - this is the way to get to the trail. When you see a train platform on the other side of the tracks, you will notice some concrete stairs leading upward on your left. A white arrow with red characters marks the trail entrance. Just go up here and keep walking.
The dedicated cycling path that runs along the coast of Jiaoxi and Zhuangwei townships is without question the best bicycle route in Yilan. It runs between two rivers, with a total length of 14.5 kilometers. The sand beach is gorgeous and usually empty - most Taiwanese don't like beaches. Along the entire route the condition of the path is excellent. This path used to be a military road where soldiers rode aound in jeeps and patrolled the coast. After martial law was lifted and beaches opened to the public, the government turned the military road into a dedicated bike path. Occasionally a rude fisherman or tourist will drive a car or scooter along the path (even though it's illegal) but the path is usually empty of traffic.
There is a barrier running along the entire coast which protects the inhabitants from communist invaders, typhoon storm surges, and tsunamis. For most of the route, the bike path runs along the top of the barrier, although it goes down on one side or the other in places. Because the barrier (and bike path) goes up and down, it provides a variety of scenery and also some good exercise. A round trip ride is less than two hours.
The north point of the path is pretty ugly - for the first kilometer you ride past the river flood plain and concrete flood barriers. Then you get some very nice views of the sea and of course Guishan 
island. You pass a military base parallel with the town of Dafu 大福. If you want something to eat or drink, you can ride down to the main coastal highway here. There is a 7-11 in the village, next to the police station.
Sometimes the bike path is closed in front of the base when soldiers practice firing their big guns over the ocean. A bored-looking soldier stationed on the road will tell you that it's closed. In that case you just have to go over to the coastal highway and ride down the road until you see a little path that leads you back toward the beach.
The southern half of the bike path has much more foliage. You can't see the ocean for most of the way here, but you get some shade and the coastal forest is attractive. The path dead ends at the point where the Lanyang and Yilan Rivers come together and empty into the ocean. There is a flood plain here which is good for bird watching in winter and spring.
The beach is perfect for swimming - it's extremely shallow near
the shore, so it's very safe. In most 
places there aren't any people, so you can go down and enjoy your private stretch of (swimsuit optional) beach. Considering how crowded the beaches are at Baishawan and Feicuiwan, the long empty beach here is an amazing luxury.
Watch out for sand drifts. Sometimes lots of sand blows onto the bike path where it runs close to the beach. The local sand is incredibly fine, so it can be very slippery when it accumulates. And once I saw a cobra here - it's the only time I've ever seen a cobra in Taiwan. I came up on it from behind and took it by surprise, and it reared up and hissed at me. It scared me so much I almost fell off my bike. But I've ridden that path many times and only saw a cobra once, so don't let that put you off.
You can get onto the bike path in lots of places - there are access roads running from the coastal highway down to the beach along the entire length. For more information see my posting on Yongzhen Beach.
This is one of the most famous trekking trails in Yilan.There are always some people on the trail, but you don't have to worry about crowds. The trail is an old Qing dynasty road which used to be the main route into northern Yilan county. The trail runs from the town of Dali 大理 in Yilan county, through the mountains, and down to a riverside park a few kilometers above Fulong 福隆 beach in Taipei county. The two towns are connected by railroad, so it's very convenient to make a circuit. It is also very accessible from Taipei by train, and makes an excellent day trip for anyone who wants to get out of the city and enjoy nature.
There is just one problem with this trail - the trailhead on the Fulong side is several kilometers from the train station, and there isn't any reliable public transportation. So if you come out on this side, you have to walk down the mountain beside a busy road. For this reason, you should definitely start on the Fulong side and finish up at Dali.
I suggest you start the trip by taking the train to Fulong. This is easy to reach from either Taipei or Yilan. If you want, you can go to the beach at Fulong, or else rent bicycles and explore the area. There are several kilometers of cycling paths around the town.
When you are ready to start walking, you can get a taxi in front of the train station and go to the trailhead. This is in a pleasant riverside park. If you like, you can go down to the river and go for a swim. The cool water feels wonderful on a hot day, and some stretches of the park are really beautiful.
When you're ready, just start walking up the trail. The path is made from large flat stones and is well maintained. At first you will pass through some fields with water buffalo. Then a humid rainforest. The stones get slippery here, so be careful. The trail slopes gently uphill for the first 2/3 of the route. It's not very difficult. You will pass two old inscribed stone tablets, which are major tourist attractions.
There are lots of bilingual signs along the way explaining historical facts and introducing the flora and fauna, and maps along the way showing how far along the route you have come.
Eventually the forest thins out and you are walking through a grassy mountain landscape. During the descent down into Yilan, there are spectacular views of the ocean and Lanyang plain.
At the Dali end of the trail there is a visitor's center complete with coffee shop, so you can sit down in the air conditioning and relax with a cappucino if you feel like a taste of civilization. From here you can walk down to the main road, turn right, and walk a hundred meters or so down to the train station to get home.
The official name of this road is Yilan Route 1 宜一線. It's a great way to get you deep into the mountains for a scenic drive. The road quickly rises above the ocean and heads west toward Taipei county. It isn't very well known, so this is also a good way to avoid traffic and crowds.
The only challenge is finding the road. First you need to drive along the main road heading north of Toucheng to Daxi 大溪 . This is home to Honeymoon Bay, the surfing beach. After you pass the Daxi train station, you will eventually come to a bridge over a little river. Just before you get to the bridge is an old bronze bust of Chiang Kai-shek on a pedestal by the side of the road. Go up the road behind the bust. This passes through a little community of houses and quickly ascends into the mountains. You just keep driving along this road as long as you want. If you keep going, it will take you into Taipei county.
Above Daxi are some hiking trails which can be accessed from the road. If you're interested you can park and go for a walk. Otherwise there isn't anything in particular to do. There are a couple of Buddhist temples and farm houses along the way but not much else. The point is to just enjoy the 
beautiful mountain scenery and cool clean air.
After 40 minutes you will come to Hudiao Lake 虎貂潭. You can't see the lake from the road, but you will see a police station, then a white tiled building with a parking lot. You can park here and take a walk down to the lake and along the river. The walking trail is extremely well constructed - it's almost too good. The path seems like something you would find in a suburban garden. The riverside scenery here is extremely beautiful. You can swim in the shallower sections of the river, although swimming is (theoretically) prohibited in the deeper parts and the lake. Taiwanese assume that people will instantly drown if the water is more than knee deep. Unlike most swimming spots in the mountains, the water isn't freezing cold because it passes through a series of lakes that warm it up a bit. This makes it very comfortable for swimming.
If you keep driving about ten minutes beyond the lake area, 
you will come to a pavillion with a view of the sea along the north coast. From here you can keep going down into Taipei county, or else turn back.
The name of this place is misleading. Even though it's called Da Jiaoxi ("Big Jiaoxi"), it's not in Jiaoxi township. In fact this area is just south of Jiaoxi, over the border in Yuanshan,closer to the town of Zhenshan 枕山. Da Jiaoxi is a pretty valley covered with fruit orchards, mostly guava trees. There are some guest houses and other facilities for tourists. People come here for a scenic drive down the little country road through the middle of the valley,
The road you want is Yilan Road 13. First you need to go to the town of Zhenshan 枕山 northwest of Yilan City. Unfortunately, the start of Road 13 isn't well marked. One way to find it is to look for the big temple in the middle of town. Road 13 begins on the left side of the temple. You can also look for signs pointing the way to Huideng High School 惠燈高中, a private school on this road.
Once you're on Road 13, just keep driving and enjoy the pretty scenery. You might want to stop and buy something from the vendors by the side of the road. Of course you should buy some guavas. You can also buy homemade country-style preserved foods such as kumquats pickled in heavy syrup and femented black beans.
There are a couple of places to have a cup of coffee or tea where you can sit outside and enjoy the bucolic scenery.
There are several things to do on this road. The first stop can be reached by going down the road 
to the left of Hushan Elementary School 湖山國小. This takes you to a pleasant little lake called Wanglongpi 望龍埤, also known as Ruanpi 軟埤. You can either walk around the lake or else have a drink at the little cafe.
Head back to the elementary school. On the right side of the school is a little trail marked by a sign which reads "tiaofu budao" 挑夫步道. This trail leads up the mountain. Although well constructed, when I visited it had been mostly reclaimed by the forest. You can still walk to the top if you want to spend 15 minutes pushing your way through weeds. But it isn't worth the trouble. If the trail has been cleared, however, this would be a good chance to take a short walk through the forest. .
The final stop is at the end of the Road 13. Continue down the road, over the bridge, and follow the 
road as it veers to the left. You will see lots of signs pointing the way to a guesthouse called Left Bank (Zuo'an 左岸). Just beyond the guesthouse is a swimming spot where people go to splash around in the mountain stream. There isn't any shade here and the water isn't deep, so I wouldn't recommend stopping here unless it's a cloudy day or you have a big beach umbrella. But if you're prepared and just want to enjoy the beautiful natural setting, it's a nice place to spend the day. Since the water is shallow, it's a safe spot to bring small children.
There are two excellent spots for swimming in the mountain stream next to Road 9甲 in Yuanshan. This is the perfect refuge during the hottest part of summer. The water is icy cold, and the surroundings are gorgeous.
Even though these places aren't marked, both spots are very popular. During summer weekeneds there will be quite a few people here. Even on summer weekdays therr will be some visitors,but it's a long stretch of river so you won't feel too crowded. If you're misanthropic, you can just wade upstream or downstream until you find an isolated spot.
Take Road 9甲 going west (toward the mountains) from the center of Yilan City. Keep following the road as it crosses the plain. After you pass the last house and start to ascend into the mountains, keep a sharp lookout for a little dirt trail on your right. You will come across it around one minute after you pass the last house and the road starts to rise up into the mountains. This trail isn't easy to spot, so you have to look for it. On the weekends there will be a couple of cars parked by the side of the road nearby.
Park and walk down the dirt path to the stream. The water here is cold and clean, and you have great scenery. Unfortunately, there isn't any shade here, so it can be uncomfortably hot on a summer day. On weekends people bring huge beach umbrellas and canopies and camp out for the day - they seem to spend most of their time barbecuing sausages. If it's a cloudy day or you bring an umbrella (or want to sunbathe), this is a nice spot. It's a great place to bring small children, as the water is very shallow and doesn't flow too fast.
To get to the second spot, keep driving up Road 9甲 for a few more minutes. You will see a little 
road that veers off to the right and crosses the stream over a small old concrete bridge. There is usually a vendor by the side of the road selling snacks, and there are always some cars parked on the road during the daytime in summer. Park and walk down to the stream.
This place is paradise. Just find a spot that suits your tastes and relax. You can soak in the cold water and enjoy the beautiful surroundings, full of frogs, dragon flies and butterflies, little fish and tadpoles. The pristine mountain water is bracingly cold. Even when it's 36 degrees down below, here you can hide in the shade and enjoy the mountain breeze. A dip in the icy water will make you forget how hot you were in Taipei.
If you bring a picnic lunch and some bottled tea or beer, you can easily spend all day here.
Even though almost no one ever swims here, this is probably the best swimming beach in north Taiwan.
The beach extends all the way along the coast of Yilan township, from the Yunyu River on the north to the Lanyang River on the south. The beach stretches a total of about 13 kilometers. For most of the way it is completely undeveloped. The beach has extremely fine gray sand. Because the sand is dark, it heats up in summer, so bring a towel and flip flops. The beach is usually pretty clean - because it faces the open Pacific, there isn't much garbage floating in, and the typhoons scour the beach clean a few times a year. There are some concrete seawalls to keep the beach from eroding in several places, but most of the way it's still natural.
The coastal road runs parallel to the beach the entire way. There is a large earthen embankment between the road and the beach. I'm not sure if this was built for military defense or as a barrier against storm surges and tsunamis. Along the embankment is a wonderful bike trail which runs the length of the beach.
The amazing thing about this beach is that almost no one swims here. Compared to the famous beach at Waiao, which has a strong current, this beach is much safer. The water near the shore is quite shallow, there isn't a noticeable undertow in the places I've been swimming, and the waves are small.
Even so, most Taiwanese are have an irrational terror of the ocean and would never dream of swimming here. Taiwanese tourists who come near the ocean always put one foot in and scream like the water is killing them - they expect to be grabbed by a giant squid, mauled by a shark, and shocked by electric eels within seconds of entering the water.
There are a couple of places where tourists go to walk on the beach. But for most of the length of this beach, there is only the occasional old guy fishing. In most places the beach is completely deserted, even on weekends. The fact that there is an almost infinite empty perfect beach in north Taiwnan, just an hour drive from Taipei, is truly amazing. If you forget your swim suit, just find and isolated spot and go swimming in your underwear ... or less.
In any Western country this beach would be prime real estate and packed full of people. It's great that Taiwanese people are terrified of the ocean, because this means that any foreigner who comes here will have a 13 kilometer long private beach.
Since the famous surfing beach at Waiao has become so crowded with kooks, the real surfers have started looking for new surfing spots. Recently I've noticed surfers on this beach at two spots north of the town of Dafu 大福. When the surf is decent, this beach seems to be as good for surfing as Waiao. And this beach is so long, surfers haven't even begun to explore most of it. I'm sure that the best surfing spots have yet to be discovered.
To get to this beach, just go to the coastal road in Jiaoxi township. Every so often you will notice a narrow paved road or walking trail which will take you up from the coastal road, over the tsunami barrier, across the bike path, and down to the beach. If you poke around it isn't hard to find a way to get down to the beach.
There is one spot with a parking lot and running water to wash off. This is the Zhuangwei Coastal Park 壯圍海濱公園. To get there, head down the coastal road until you reach Zhuangbin Road Section 4 壯濱路四段. You will come to a large temple called Kaizhang Shengwang Temple 開漳聖王廟. To the left of the temple is a little road which leads up to a parking lot.
This park area has a great boardwalk which is perfect for walking above the beach and enjoying the view, complete with covered places to sit. This is a good place to get a view of Guishan Island
.
If you like you can go down to the beach here and swim. Afterwards you can wash off at the taps near the parking lot. Unfortunately, these aren't showers - they're meant for people to wash their feet after walking on the beach. (Surely no one would be crazy enough to swim in the ocean!) But you can bend over and splash water around to wash off after a swim.
These are the most impressive waterfalls in Yilan county. They are also easy to reach - not too far from the middle of Jiaoxi. The amount of water coming down the falls varies a lot, depending on the season. In summer if it hasn't rained much, the falls can be pretty puny. But in the winter or spring rainy season, or after a summer or autumn typhoon, enormous quantities of water explode down the falls.
This site is incredibly popular on weekends. On weekdays there will probably only be a few people around, but on summer weekends you should expect tour buses and a steady stream of cars. Despite the threat of crowds, the falls are so beautiful that they're still well worth a visit.
To get here, drive south on Road 9 through the middle of Jiaoxi. Turn left on Dazhong Road 大忠路. Keep going straight. This road turns into Wufeng Road 五峰路 and takes you all the way to the falls. There are some signs pointing the way to the falls, and also signs to the Royal Jiaoxi Hotel, which is near the falls.
On Dazhong Road you will pass the entrance to the road which goes up to the Old Paoma Trail 跑馬古道 on your right. This is a popular mountain forest walk. You can do this walk on your way back down if you're in the mood for some exercise. See my post on this trail.
Eventually the road will dead end in front of two rows of vendors selling food and souvenirs. Park wherever you can and walk past the vendors and up the trail.
There are three waterfalls. The first two are very close - you can walk up the trail in just a few minutes. But the highest waterfall can only be reached after a strenuous hike.
The third waterfall is the lowest. This isn't very impressive, but you can walk down to the water and splash around in front of the falls.
Keep walking up the trail and soon you will get to the second falls. These are very impressive when there has been rain recently. They are quite high and surrounded by subtropical vegetation.
Unfortunately, the first falls at the top have been closed since the summer of 2009 because of a landslide that occurred during a typoon. To reach the first falls, intead of heading back to the entrance, on your way down you should turn right onto the other trail. If you reach a gate on your right which is closed, this means that the first waterfall hasn't been reopened yet.
If you can go up to the first falls, be prepared for a strenous climb. You have to walk up steep stone steps for about half a kilometer to reach the first waterfall. This is a very strenuous climb, akin to walking up a skyscraper (only inside a steam bath), so don't do it unless you're ready for the climb. Half way up, you'll be wondering if this could possibly be worth it. Don't despair - keep going! The scene at the top is well worth the climb. The first waterfall is huge and gorgeous - a beautiful reward for the steep hike.
If the gate is closed and you can't go up to the first waterfall, keep going down the trail. At the end you will come to a little paved road. Take the steps to the side leading uphill. These lead to a little Catholic church which has a pretty view of the first falls far above in the distance. The road in back of the church leads to the Marian trail (see my post).
On your way back down, as you pass the vendors you might consider buying some wild honey. In addition to maintaining his own hives, the bee guy here also raids hives in the forest and sells honey he's stolen from angry wild bees. This is the best honey you'll ever taste.
If you feel like a swim and brought along a swimsuit, you should walk down from the vendors area to the riverbed. Follow the river downstream for a few minutes and you will come to a large swimming area - it's like a big swimming pool. This little reservoir holds the river water temporarily to create a swimming area. The cement is a bit slimy with algea, but the water is pleasantly cool. This swimming place is popular on weekends, but during the week there won't be too many people here. The cold fresh water is a good alternative to a hot sandy beach.
A bit further downstream is a riverside park which is very popular with families. Kids love wading in the shallow water.
This is one of the most popular mountain trails in Yilan. During the nineteenth century it was one of the main thoroughfares between Taipei and the east coast. Pioneers and merchants walked this trail to get to and from the Lanyang Plain. Now the trail is maintained by the government, not just because of its historical significance but also due to the great scenery. Even on weekdays you will run into several people walking the trail. On weekends there can be quite a few visitors.
Although you are climbing the whole time, the slope is gradual with no stone steps and the trail is very well maintained, so it's an easy walk. The trail surface alternates between dirt and gravel with flat stones.
As you walk up the mountain path, in places the foliage opens up to reveal spectacular views across the Yilan Plain to the Pacific. Higher up you have a postcard perfect view of Guishan Island.
The trail cuts through the mountain forest. Along the way you can hear the water from Houdong Falls far below. Near the top of the trail the foliage gradually changes from lowland subtropical rainforest to evergreens and bamboo. Lots of monkeys live in these mountains, and if you're lucky you might see some. I saw two the day I visited. If you notice a rustle in the tops of the trees, stop and take a look. You almost always hear monkeys before you see them. Also, along the way is a little shrine to the mountain gods, which is a good example of the makeshift spirit of Taiwanese folk religion.
Near the top of the trail is a little mountain spring called Houdongkeng Stream 猴洞坑溪, which feeds the Houdong Falls below. If you climb over some rocks, you will find several little pools which are hidden from view. There you can strip down in privacy and cool off in the icy mountan water, which feels great on a hot day.
There are two entrances to the trail - one at the bottom (south) near Jiaoxi and the other in the mountains (north) at the top. Almost everyone walks from Jiaoxi uphill, as the south entrance is much easier to get to, and you also get to walk downhill for the last half. The entire walk takes less than two hours.
To get to the trail head, take the road out of Jiaoxi toward Wufengqi Falls and the Royal Jiaoxi Hotel. Turn at the first road on the right - there is a sign here marking this as the road to the Old Paoma Trail. There is usually someone selling snacks at this intersection. (If you get as far as the Royal Jiaoxi Hotel, turn around and go back - you've gone much too far.) Follow this twisting narrow paved road uphill until you get to a large wooden sign that marks the start of the trail. There is room for parking here. Walk along the trail until you get to the paved road at the top, then just turn around and go back down the same way.
Houdong Waterfall is the first scenic spot in Yilan county you come to after exiting the Xueshan tunnel from Taipei. The trail to the waterfall runs right underneath the highway.
Unless there has been a lot of rain, the waterfall is just a thin stream of water that races down several cataracts in a steep ravine. It's a narrow but pretty place, and there is a fine view across the Lanyang plain to the Pacific from the top. However, if you just want to look at a beautiful waterfall, you should go to Wufengqi Falls above Jiaoxi, which are much bigger.
The reason to go to Houdong is to swim. At the top of the falls are a series of wonderful shallow rocky pools. On a hot day, the water is very cold, clean and refreshing - the perfect mountain swimming hole.If you go here on a weekday you'll probably have the place to yourself. You can climb over some 
rocks and into one of the higher pools for complete privacy and enjoy a clothing-optional swimming hole.
The path to the waterfall isn't well marked, so you might have to hunt to find the trailhead. You can get onto the path from several places, but most are hidden away down a maze of narrow winding roads in a residential neighborhood. The easiest entrance to find is underneath the No. 9 highway. Between the Xueshan tunnel and the main road in Jiaoxi is a river. The trail begins on the left side of the river, under the highway.There is a small sign in Chinese near the road, but the sign is easy to miss. Just look for the river. Park on the left side of the river and start walking uphill along the stone path. Soon the you will be walking next to a large riverbed which is usually dry unless it has recently rained. Keep going. You will reach the falls after an easy 25 minute walk.
Even though this mountain trail is near the prime tourist sites in Toucheng, it isn't very well known. Nor is it particularly beautiful or dramatic. However, this ordinariness is the trail's main charm. Because the trail isn't very popular, it feels more natural than the major tourist trails. It's an extremely convenient way to get into the mountains for a taste of typical Yilan rainforest. It is a short walk from Waiao beach and Wushigang, two of the most popular tourist spots in Yilan. So it's possible to take a walk in the mountains, then go back to the beach and take a dip in the ocean to cool off afterward. There is also an air conditioned coffee shop in the beach visitors center where you can rest and cool off after your hike.
Guishan Island from here. After you get to the top of the first mountain and start going inland, you find yourself in a very quiet subtropical rainforest. The trail runs next to a stream, which is very pretty in spots. Unfortunately some selfish people living downhill have run water pipes through the forest to get free spring water from the source, and these pipes mar the scenery for much of the way.
signs in Chinese point the way to the trail head. You can park next to the temples and start walking north next to the tracks, or you can just walk over from the beach. The path along the train tracks which leads to the trail head doesn't look too promising - it becomes very narrow and you will wonder if you've made a mistake. Don't worry - this is the way to get to the trail. When you see a train platform on the other side of the tracks, you will notice some concrete stairs leading upward on your left. A white arrow with red characters marks the trail entrance. Just go up here and keep walking.
