RSL Cold Spring Resort in Suao 瓏山林蘇澳冷熱泉度假飯店

This is quite simply one of the best hotels in Yilan - and in Taiwan. It's quite expensive, but you get value for your money. And the opportunity to soak in the cold spring water during the hottest days of summer, immersed in unapologetic luxury, is pure bliss.

This is an odd location for such a luxurious hotel. Suao is the only part of Yilan which was developed for heavy industry. The town has some large cement factories and steel foundries, which makes it feel more like Kaohsiung than Yilan. The town of Suao is basically an eyesore, despite a pretty setting wedged between mountains and sea. As you drive toward the hotel you'll wonder whether you've made a wrong turn somewhere. And the hotel is in a decidedly unscenic place, next to a gas station, because that's where the cold spring happens to be.

Don't worry. The hotel itself is absolutely magnificent, and turns inward on itself to feature the array of courtyard cold and hot spring pools. Once you go inside you're deliberately cut off from the dusty streets outside and encircled by impressive architecture. The style is Southern California Palladian, and it looks like everything was magically transplanted from Beverly Hills. The staff maintains the highest level of service I've ever encountered in Taiwan, and they all seem to speak sufficient English.

In the courtyard at the center of the hotel are a dozen gorgeous pools with spring water of various temperatures - cold, cool, warm, and hot. The pools and surrounding Italianate sculpture are all quite tasteful and elegant.

I had purchased a special package which included room, dinner and breakfast, spa, cocktail in the bar, drink by the pool, and the naked spring on the roof. I recommend getting the package - it's a good deal. Because we had a package of activities, we were busy the whole time.

After bathing in the various courtyard pools, we went for the spa. The spa area was very beautiful - everything was first rate. The spa treatment was basically a relaxing rubbing massage (instead of the usual painful Chinese acupressure). Afterwards we were served herb tea in a little lounge area.

Meals qualify as haute cuisine. I arranged in advance for the vegetarian option, and I was very satisfied. Everything was very tasty, featured local ingredients, and was elaborately presented. The people in the kitchen definitely know what they're doing.

After dinner we went to the impressive bar for a cocktail. A duo was playing live jazz, which I enjoyed. However, all of the bathing and spa had turned us into jelly, so we just ended going to bed early. Even though we were in a tatami room (which came with the package) and sleeping on the floor, I slept better than I had in a long time.

The next morning, after a beautifully plated breakfast, we went upstairs to the nude spring. As with the rest of the resort, the nude spring area is also very elegant. There was only one other person in the men's area, which was surprising. If you don't have a package, you have to pay extra to use the nude spring, so most people seem to just stick to the courtyard pools downstairs. The men's nude spring features hot springs and two cold springs, one pair inside and another pair outside, so you can look at either the mountains or harbor while bathing.

As far as I could tell, I was the only foreign guest that day. About half of the guests had brought their children, which surprised me. In the US a hotel this elegant would be a romantic retreat for couples, but Taiwanese seem to consider anything with a swimming pool a place to take kids. The other guests were very well behaved and the kids weren't a problem. However, all of the kids made the dining room a bit noisy, which was odd for a restaurant serving such high end food.

Don't bother to dress up. Despite the high price and surroundings, most of the other guests dressed like they had bought their entire wardrobe from the clearance bin at Carrefour. As far as I can tell, the only time most Taiwanese people ever dress up in their entire life is for their wedding photos.

Although the hotel is famous for its unique cold spring, because there is also hot spring water this would also be a nice getaway in winter.

To get here just drive south along the highway to the very end and exit at Suao. Then follow the signs to the hotel. You have to make a few turns to get there, but the route is well marked with large signs and billboards. You can unload in front of the hotel, then park in the lot on the left side of the hotel.

Here is the hotel website:

www.rslhotel.com/

Ah Xian Hot Spring 阿先溫泉會館

I probably shouldn't tell anyone about this place, because the main reason I like it is that it isn't crowded. This certainly isn't the nicest hot spring in Yilan. Nor is it the cheapest. Nor is it beautiful or elegant. In fact the facilities are worn and a bit tacky. But it's still my favorite Jiaoxi hot spring. It offers good value for the money, and I appreciate the lack of crowds.

This hot spring has something for everyone. The building in front is a hotel. There is a hot spring pool in each guest room if you want to stay overnight.

If you just want to bathe in private you can also get a private hot spring room in this building and soak for an hour. These private rooms aren't very big but are certainly ok for a soak.

In back (behind the parking lot) are the communal springs. You have to wear a swimsuit in the outdoor spring. This is basically a big swimming pool full of hot water, and is the best option for people with kids, since they can splash around.

Inside the two long buildings are separate naked pools for men and women. The men's pool is basically a large swimming pool, with a little pool of cold water and some water jets for back massage. There aren't many communal pools in Jiaoxi, and this one is my favorite. The water is very clean, the temperature is right, and unless the weather is unusually cold, there are usually not many people. I assume that the women's pool is the same.

There are lockers for clothes and valuables, but you have to pay a NT 100 deposit to get a key.

Be sure to observe the proper etiquette if you use the communal pools. (See my post on Jiaoxi hot springs). Take off your shoes at the entrance to the changing area of communal naked pool. There are shelves on the side for you to put your shoes. Most importantly be sure to wash off thoroughly at the showers before getting in the pool!

To get here, follow the street away from the train station and keep going uphill past the various hot spring hotels. Where the street forks, turn right. Drive two minutes and you will see a big sign in Chinese for Ah Xian. Turn left and park behind the hotel.
The hot spring has an English website:

http://www.vipspa.com.tw/eng/p02-1.htm

Cherry Blossom Hot Spring 櫻花溫泉館

This hot spring is in a remote area of Datong 大同 township not far from Road 7. If you happen to be passing by on the way to or from other attractions, it's worth the detour.

The setup here is a bit different from most hot springs. Most of the rooms are little huts with a tub big enough for one person, so you bathe in private. A regular room only costs NT 200, which is a real bargain. There are also deluxe rooms equipped with a jacuzzi which cost 500-600 NT, but I don't think this is necessary. The facilities are simple but spotlessly clean.

The water here is totally different from the famous calcium carbonate hot springs down in Jiaoxi - in fact it's quite different from all the other hot springs I've ever been to in Taiwan. Here the water has a noticeable sulfur smell and some natural chemical in it stung my eyes slightly (don't worry - stinging eyes are part of the fun). The water is also slightly murky, as it contains some ultra-fine volcanic ash in suspension, giving it an odd slippery feeling.

They also serve food here, and rent out campsites for people to pitch their tents. If you want to camp along Road 7, this is the place.

To get here, drive west on Road 7 from Yilan City. After a little more than half an hour, you will come to the second bridge over the river. This is the Douniu Bridge 鬥牛橋, which also has a sign marking the way to the town of Douniu. Turn left, cross the river, and keep going. This road is called 7 Bing (7 丙). After about five minutes you will see a big hot pink sign on the right marking the hot spring. (If you get to the next bridge, you've gone too far.)

Jiaoxi Hot Springs 礁溪溫泉

Yilan is probably the best place in the world .... except when it rains. Which it does a lot. Unlike Taipei, almost everything worth doing in Yilan is outdoors.So when it rains, Yilan is pretty boring. Fortunately, there's one activity which is perfect for rainy or cold weather - the hot springs in Jiaoxi. Large numbers of people come here from Taipei each weekend during the winter to soak in the hot springs, and the town is dedicated to hot spring tourism.

The hotels in Jiaoxi have improved a lot in recent years. The town used to be pretty seedy and the hot spring hotels were associated with prostitution. Even now I hear that if a male visitor stays alone at a cheap hotel, the staff will hint about helping him hire a prostitute. But seedy hotels are on the decline, and some very nice hotels and hot springs have been built in recent years.

The hot spring water in Jiaoxi is superb. In Taipei some hot spring areas have been overbuilt and lack enough water, so the spring water can sometimes sit in the pool for quite awhile. Once I went to a hot spring on Xingyi Road in Taipei which had murky water which I thought was pretty unhygenic. Fortunately, this is never a problem in Jiaoxi. The hot spring here produces an enormous amount of water, so water in the pools is constantly flowing and very clean.

Most of the hot springs around Taipei are known for their sulfur, so some of them have a pretty strong smell. In contrast, the Jiaoxi spring is almost odorless, but is very high in calcium carbonate.

There are basically four ways of experiencing a hot spring in Taiwan: in your hotel room, spa, double room, or communal pool.

First, you can stay in a hotel which has hot spring water in the guest rooms. This way you can take a hot spring bath in the comfort and privacy of your own room. Almost all of the hotel rooms in Jiaoxi have hot spring water.

Second, you can go to a hotel which has a so-called "spa." In Taiwan this word has a different meaning from English. Here a spa refers to a hot spring which is like a swimming pool. These spas often have water slides and other diversions for kids, and are very popular with families. As these are often in the public areas of hotels, you wear a swimsuit in the spa. If you stay in a hotel with a spa, you can use it for free, but they are almost always open to outside visitors for a fee. Avoid these if you don't like having little kids splash you with hot water.

Third, you can rent a private room (tangwu 湯屋). These are usually big enough for two people to enjoy a hot spring together, although you can also rent one for yourself if you're alone. They usually come with a bed so that the couple can "rest" before relaxing in the hot spring. This is the best option if you're bashful. Price and quality vary enormously. You can get one of these rooms in a cheap old hotel for just a a couple of hundred NT, while a double room in the Evergreen Hotel (the best in town) is very luxurious and costs more than NT 1000. You usually get 60 to 90 minutes for your money, although if it's a weekday and business is slow you can ask for more time.

Fourth, you can go to a communal pool (dazhongchi 大眾池). This is my favorite. These pools are single sex and everyone soaks in the spring completely naked. While these are very popular in the hot springs around Taipei, people in the other parts of Taiwan seem to be more bashful about being naked with strangers, so there aren't many communal naked pools in other parts of the island. Communal pools usually don't provide towels, so you sould bring a little towel with you (Taiwanese just bring a little hand towel - it doensn't have to be very big.) You can buy little towels in most of the convenience stores in Jiaoxi. Don't feel shy if you aren't a gorgeous physical specimen. Most of the guys in the men's pool have beer bellies, and I'm sure the women's side isn't any better.

If you are bathing with strangers in a hot spring, particularly a communal naked pool, it is very important to observe proper hot spring etiquette.

The most important thing is - wash yourself thoroughly before you get in the hot spring!!! I can't emphasize enough how important this is. Not washing yourself off before getting in a hot spring is probably the biggest faux pas you can commit while visiting Taiwan - Taiwanese would find this utterly appalling. In Western culture, this would be akin to deliberately vomiting on someone's living room sofa.

When you enter a communal hot spring, there will be a row of low faucets and low stools near the entrance. After you take off your clothes and put them away, you should sit on a stool and wash yourself thoroughly. And I mean very thoroughly - sometimes people sit there for an incredibly long time scrubbing every single crevice and pore. So if anyone is watching, you should make a big show about how carefully you're cleaning yourself, and take your time.

This isn't just an arbitrary taboo. Hot springs aren't chlorinated. Since the water temperature is so high, bacteria can breed very quickly if the water is contaminated. So everyone has to cooperate to keep the water clean and safe.

There are a few other rules to consider:

Take off your shoes as soon as you enter the hot spring. There will be a cabinet or shelf for shoes as you enter.

Don't ever get soap or shampoo near the hot spring pool.

While you wear a swimsuit in a spa, don't ever wear a swimsuit in a communal naked pool. People consider any sort of cloth to be full of germs which will contaminate the hot spring.

Don't get a towel near the pool - Taiwanese suspect towels of being germ magnets. Just leave your towel with your clothes.

You should bring a bottle of water or tea. Sitting in the hot water will make you extremely thirsty. (For some reason it also increases the appetite).

If you ever take a hot spring bath in a closed room that doesn't have climate control, be sure to open a window. Hot spring water sometimes contains small amounts of poison gas. If you're in a communal spring - don't worry - the management has already taken care of that problem.

Don't soak in a hot spring if you're drunk or have heart problems.

Tangweigou Hot Spring Park 湯圍溝溫泉公園

This long thin park in the middle of Jiaoxi, not far from the train station, is the source of the famous local hot spring. An open stream of hot spring water runs through the park, and both tourists and locals come here to soak their feet in the hot spring water and chat. There are also several pools for foot soaking. Unlike the hot spring park in Beitou, this water is clean (the water running through the park in Beitou is discharge from the surrounding hot spring - you might occasionally see a turd floating downstream). You can walk upstream and see where the hot spring comes out of the ground, so the water here is pristine.

Besides foot soaking, in the evenings people gather here to walk along the boardwalk which runs the length of the park. There are a few vendors to the side where you can buy local produce (guavas, kumquats, and so on) and also some snacks. On weekdays this park is fairly quiet, but on weekends there are quite a few people here. The number of vendors increases considerably and on one side the place becomes a bit like a night market.

There are two places to bathe in the hot spring water in the park. One is the decrepit old shack in toward the west end of the park. This is a communal naked hot spring for men only. In fact, the only people who go here are old lmen from Jiaoxi. It's free, but that's the only good thing you can say about this place. The patrons are pretty creepy and the unpleasant atmosphere scares off most people. But if you're absolutely determined to get a free hot spring bath, this is the place.

The other option is the new communcal hot spring building on the far side of the park. This is an extremely beautiful building. In fact, it's something of an architectural gem. The interior is all wood - even the hot spring pools are lined with wood.

Admission is only NT 80, and senior citizens (over 65) get in for just NT 40. There are two communal naked pools - with men and women on different sides. Considering how nice this place is, the low admission price is a huge bargain. As a result, this hot spring is much too popular. On cold days you can expect a crowd, even during the week. On weekends don't even think about it - this place will be bursting at the seams.

Another problem is that unlike every other communal hot spring I've ever been to, the temperature isn't centrally regulated. Instead the patrons can determine how much hot and cold water goes into pool. There's ALWAYS at least one crazy old guy who likes his bath boiling hot, so the temperature is usually 43 degrees - far beyond most people's comfort zone. I brought an American friend here who had never been to a hot spring before. He ended up on the side of the pool curled up in a fetal position like a burn victim.

At night, there are two cafes at each end of the park. The one of the east serves both drinks and food - mostly Yilan specialties made with the local scallion and other vegetables. The one on the west serves only drinks. However, both serve freshly brewed microbrewery beer. I've tasted the dark malt, which I liked. I wasn't crazy about the wheat beer. I thought it had a funny taste. I have yet to try the others beers. One of their beers is brewed with seaweed, which I haven't dared to try. If you've always wanted to try seaweed flavored beer, this is your big chance.

In the evenings, there is often a singer with guitar singing old Taiwanese songs for tips at one cafe or the other. Even on the hottest days, there's a cool breeze here in the evening. A foot bath, beer, and quiet music is a pleasant way to end the day.