Niannian Restaurant 年年小館

Yilan isn't famous for its fine restaurants. Local people are mostly very traditional and rarely eat out, so the restaurant culture isn't very well developed. Most restaurants I've been to here aren't anything special. However, Niannian is an exception. I've eaten at the Jiaoxi branch a number of times, and the food is consistently good. What's more, they specialize in traditional Yilan dishes, so this is the place to come for a taste of the local cuisine.

There are three branches of the restaurant. The main branch is on the north side of Yilan City. I've never been there, but a friend tells me that the food there is better than at the branch locations. The Jiaoxi branch is conveniently located on the main road that cuts through town not far north of the train station area. There is also a branch in Luodong.

The menu is very extensive and is basically an encyclopedia of Yilan food. One page is even devoted to Yilan snack foods like you would find in a night market. Many of the dishes here are distinctive regional foods, such as shrimp cooked in hot stones, spicy lemon chicken, chicken soup with medicinal herbs, pork ribs with kumquats, and anything with scallions. Ask your waitress for recommendations of unique local foods.

The addresses are -

Main restaurant:
Huanshi East Road, Section 2, no. 777, Yilan City 宜蘭市環市東路二段777號
http://039373016.eyilan.tw/

Jiaoxi branch:
115 Jiaoxi Road, Section 5, Jiaoxi 宜蘭縣礁溪鄉礁溪路五段115號
http://039875252.eyilan.tw/

Luodong branch:
126 Yangming Road, Luodong 宜蘭縣羅東鎮陽明路126號
http://039567858.eyilan.tw/

Ah Xian Hot Spring 阿先溫泉會館

I probably shouldn't tell anyone about this place, because the main reason I like it is that it isn't crowded. This certainly isn't the nicest hot spring in Yilan. Nor is it the cheapest. Nor is it beautiful or elegant. In fact the facilities are worn and a bit tacky. But it's still my favorite Jiaoxi hot spring. It offers good value for the money, and I appreciate the lack of crowds.

This hot spring has something for everyone. The building in front is a hotel. There is a hot spring pool in each guest room if you want to stay overnight.

If you just want to bathe in private you can also get a private hot spring room in this building and soak for an hour. These private rooms aren't very big but are certainly ok for a soak.

In back (behind the parking lot) are the communal springs. You have to wear a swimsuit in the outdoor spring. This is basically a big swimming pool full of hot water, and is the best option for people with kids, since they can splash around.

Inside the two long buildings are separate naked pools for men and women. The men's pool is basically a large swimming pool, with a little pool of cold water and some water jets for back massage. There aren't many communal pools in Jiaoxi, and this one is my favorite. The water is very clean, the temperature is right, and unless the weather is unusually cold, there are usually not many people. I assume that the women's pool is the same.

There are lockers for clothes and valuables, but you have to pay a NT 100 deposit to get a key.

Be sure to observe the proper etiquette if you use the communal pools. (See my post on Jiaoxi hot springs). Take off your shoes at the entrance to the changing area of communal naked pool. There are shelves on the side for you to put your shoes. Most importantly be sure to wash off thoroughly at the showers before getting in the pool!

To get here, follow the street away from the train station and keep going uphill past the various hot spring hotels. Where the street forks, turn right. Drive two minutes and you will see a big sign in Chinese for Ah Xian. Turn left and park behind the hotel.
The hot spring has an English website:

http://www.vipspa.com.tw/eng/p02-1.htm

Bird Watching in the Wendi Wetlands 在塭底溼地賞鳥

This is a prime bird watching area. From fall to spring, when it's not raining there are always some bird watchers from Taipei here every weekend.

Before the Han came to Yilan, this area was originally a swamp. Settlers cleared and drained it and turned it into rice paddies. However, unlike the south, where farmers can get three crops of rice per year, here they only get one crop due to the cooler weather. The rest of the time the fields are fallow. In winter the fields are empty of vegetation, but the rains fill the paddies with a thin layer of water, recreating wetland conditions which are perfect feeding grounds for many types of birds.

Starting in October, migratory birds start to arrive in this area. Some are just passing through on the way to areas farther south, while others spend the winter here. In all bird watchers have spotted more than 170 species of birds in the area - an impressive number for such a small place. These include some big birds (cranes, egrets, herons, ducks) as well as many smaller wetland birds and song birds. Some of the endangered black spoonbills pass through here on the way to nesting grounds in the south. And occasionally a small group of black spoonbills will spend the entire winter here, attracting a horde of excited bird watchers every day.

There are three types of migratory birds here. Some spend the summers in places farther north (Siberia, Korea, Hokkaido, Manchuria) then fly south to spend the winter here. Other birds (such as geese) spend the summers in places to the north, then fly through here on their way to winter feeding grounds in the south (such as the Philippines or Vietnam). A third kind of migratory bird spends the summers in Taiwan then flies south to spend the winter in tropical regions.

Because the little roads between the rice paddies are so narrow, getting around by bicycle is ideal. Also, a bicycle is quiet so it won't scare away the birds. But a car or scooter is also ok. There are a couple of good bicycle paths nearby (see my posts about Coastal Cycling Path and the Dezikou River Bike Path) so you can take a spin after you've gotten your fill of bird watching.

Because the birds move around, it's impossible to predict where they will be on a given day. But from October to April you can always find some interesting birds here. If you have a camera with a long lens, you can get some great shots of birds here as there is no vegetation to obscure them.

To get here, go down the main street of Jiaoxi (road 9) and turn onto the street next to the post office. (The scallion pancake stand on the right is locally famous, by the way. On weekends it attracts long lines.) Turn right at the dead end at the end of the street. Take the first left, after the convenience store and next to the steamed bun shop (which also attracts long lines of customers). Cross over the railroad tracks and just keep going straight for a few kilometers until you see an enormous metal sculpture of a giant shrimp on your right. (This area used to have lots of shrimp farms.) Turn right at the shrimp and cross over the bridge. The street on the other side of the bridge is called Wendi Road 塭底路. The rice paddies on the right side of the street (toward the mountains) constitute the Wendi Wetlands. Just turn off Wendi Road as soon as you can and start to explore the little roads amoung the rice paddies until you find a place with lots of birds.

Jiaoxi Hot Springs 礁溪溫泉

Yilan is probably the best place in the world .... except when it rains. Which it does a lot. Unlike Taipei, almost everything worth doing in Yilan is outdoors.So when it rains, Yilan is pretty boring. Fortunately, there's one activity which is perfect for rainy or cold weather - the hot springs in Jiaoxi. Large numbers of people come here from Taipei each weekend during the winter to soak in the hot springs, and the town is dedicated to hot spring tourism.

The hotels in Jiaoxi have improved a lot in recent years. The town used to be pretty seedy and the hot spring hotels were associated with prostitution. Even now I hear that if a male visitor stays alone at a cheap hotel, the staff will hint about helping him hire a prostitute. But seedy hotels are on the decline, and some very nice hotels and hot springs have been built in recent years.

The hot spring water in Jiaoxi is superb. In Taipei some hot spring areas have been overbuilt and lack enough water, so the spring water can sometimes sit in the pool for quite awhile. Once I went to a hot spring on Xingyi Road in Taipei which had murky water which I thought was pretty unhygenic. Fortunately, this is never a problem in Jiaoxi. The hot spring here produces an enormous amount of water, so water in the pools is constantly flowing and very clean.

Most of the hot springs around Taipei are known for their sulfur, so some of them have a pretty strong smell. In contrast, the Jiaoxi spring is almost odorless, but is very high in calcium carbonate.

There are basically four ways of experiencing a hot spring in Taiwan: in your hotel room, spa, double room, or communal pool.

First, you can stay in a hotel which has hot spring water in the guest rooms. This way you can take a hot spring bath in the comfort and privacy of your own room. Almost all of the hotel rooms in Jiaoxi have hot spring water.

Second, you can go to a hotel which has a so-called "spa." In Taiwan this word has a different meaning from English. Here a spa refers to a hot spring which is like a swimming pool. These spas often have water slides and other diversions for kids, and are very popular with families. As these are often in the public areas of hotels, you wear a swimsuit in the spa. If you stay in a hotel with a spa, you can use it for free, but they are almost always open to outside visitors for a fee. Avoid these if you don't like having little kids splash you with hot water.

Third, you can rent a private room (tangwu 湯屋). These are usually big enough for two people to enjoy a hot spring together, although you can also rent one for yourself if you're alone. They usually come with a bed so that the couple can "rest" before relaxing in the hot spring. This is the best option if you're bashful. Price and quality vary enormously. You can get one of these rooms in a cheap old hotel for just a a couple of hundred NT, while a double room in the Evergreen Hotel (the best in town) is very luxurious and costs more than NT 1000. You usually get 60 to 90 minutes for your money, although if it's a weekday and business is slow you can ask for more time.

Fourth, you can go to a communal pool (dazhongchi 大眾池). This is my favorite. These pools are single sex and everyone soaks in the spring completely naked. While these are very popular in the hot springs around Taipei, people in the other parts of Taiwan seem to be more bashful about being naked with strangers, so there aren't many communal naked pools in other parts of the island. Communal pools usually don't provide towels, so you sould bring a little towel with you (Taiwanese just bring a little hand towel - it doensn't have to be very big.) You can buy little towels in most of the convenience stores in Jiaoxi. Don't feel shy if you aren't a gorgeous physical specimen. Most of the guys in the men's pool have beer bellies, and I'm sure the women's side isn't any better.

If you are bathing with strangers in a hot spring, particularly a communal naked pool, it is very important to observe proper hot spring etiquette.

The most important thing is - wash yourself thoroughly before you get in the hot spring!!! I can't emphasize enough how important this is. Not washing yourself off before getting in a hot spring is probably the biggest faux pas you can commit while visiting Taiwan - Taiwanese would find this utterly appalling. In Western culture, this would be akin to deliberately vomiting on someone's living room sofa.

When you enter a communal hot spring, there will be a row of low faucets and low stools near the entrance. After you take off your clothes and put them away, you should sit on a stool and wash yourself thoroughly. And I mean very thoroughly - sometimes people sit there for an incredibly long time scrubbing every single crevice and pore. So if anyone is watching, you should make a big show about how carefully you're cleaning yourself, and take your time.

This isn't just an arbitrary taboo. Hot springs aren't chlorinated. Since the water temperature is so high, bacteria can breed very quickly if the water is contaminated. So everyone has to cooperate to keep the water clean and safe.

There are a few other rules to consider:

Take off your shoes as soon as you enter the hot spring. There will be a cabinet or shelf for shoes as you enter.

Don't ever get soap or shampoo near the hot spring pool.

While you wear a swimsuit in a spa, don't ever wear a swimsuit in a communal naked pool. People consider any sort of cloth to be full of germs which will contaminate the hot spring.

Don't get a towel near the pool - Taiwanese suspect towels of being germ magnets. Just leave your towel with your clothes.

You should bring a bottle of water or tea. Sitting in the hot water will make you extremely thirsty. (For some reason it also increases the appetite).

If you ever take a hot spring bath in a closed room that doesn't have climate control, be sure to open a window. Hot spring water sometimes contains small amounts of poison gas. If you're in a communal spring - don't worry - the management has already taken care of that problem.

Don't soak in a hot spring if you're drunk or have heart problems.

Coastal cycling path 濱海自行車道

The dedicated cycling path that runs along the coast of Jiaoxi and Zhuangwei townships is without question the best bicycle route in Yilan. It runs between two rivers, with a total length of 14.5 kilometers. The sand beach is gorgeous and usually empty - most Taiwanese don't like beaches. Along the entire route the condition of the path is excellent. This path used to be a military road where soldiers rode aound in jeeps and patrolled the coast. After martial law was lifted and beaches opened to the public, the government turned the military road into a dedicated bike path. Occasionally a rude fisherman or tourist will drive a car or scooter along the path (even though it's illegal) but the path is usually empty of traffic.

There is a barrier running along the entire coast which protects the inhabitants from communist invaders, typhoon storm surges, and tsunamis. For most of the route, the bike path runs along the top of the barrier, although it goes down on one side or the other in places. Because the barrier (and bike path) goes up and down, it provides a variety of scenery and also some good exercise. A round trip ride is less than two hours.

The north point of the path is pretty ugly - for the first kilometer you ride past the river flood plain and concrete flood barriers. Then you get some very nice views of the sea and of course Guishan island. You pass a military base parallel with the town of Dafu 大福. If you want something to eat or drink, you can ride down to the main coastal highway here. There is a 7-11 in the village, next to the police station.

Sometimes the bike path is closed in front of the base when soldiers practice firing their big guns over the ocean. A bored-looking soldier stationed on the road will tell you that it's closed. In that case you just have to go over to the coastal highway and ride down the road until you see a little path that leads you back toward the beach.

The southern half of the bike path has much more foliage. You can't see the ocean for most of the way here, but you get some shade and the coastal forest is attractive. The path dead ends at the point where the Lanyang and Yilan Rivers come together and empty into the ocean. There is a flood plain here which is good for bird watching in winter and spring.

The beach is perfect for swimming - it's extremely shallow near
the shore, so it's very safe. In most places there aren't any people, so you can go down and enjoy your private stretch of (swimsuit optional) beach. Considering how crowded the beaches are at Baishawan and Feicuiwan, the long empty beach here is an amazing luxury.

Watch out for sand drifts. Sometimes lots of sand blows onto the bike path where it runs close to the beach. The local sand is incredibly fine, so it can be very slippery when it accumulates. And once I saw a cobra here - it's the only time I've ever seen a cobra in Taiwan. I came up on it from behind and took it by surprise, and it reared up and hissed at me. It scared me so much I almost fell off my bike. But I've ridden that path many times and only saw a cobra once, so don't let that put you off.

You can get onto the bike path in lots of places - there are access roads running from the coastal highway down to the beach along the entire length. For more information see my posting on Yongzhen Beach.

Marian Mountain Trail 聖母登山步道

This is an excellent trail which ascends through a dense rainforest up to a windswept peak about 1000 meters above sea level. Along the way you pass through a variety of micro-climates and see a rich variety of vegetation. Unlike the typical hiking trail in Taiwan, the Marian trail is also a Catholic pilgrimage route. The destination is a large crucifix on a high mountaintop. Although it initially became popular among Catholics, the route is now maintained by the government.

This trail is uphill all the way so you will be quite tired when you finished. If you aren't in decent physical condition, you should try an easier path like the nearby Old Paoma Trail, which is fairly flat. Take plenty of water (more than you think you will need), especially in hot weather. The trail ends on a windswept mountain which can be chilly in summer and freezing cold at other times of year. If you are not doing the hike in summer, bring some warm clothing to wear at the peak. And watch out for snakes and hornets. Several signs warn visitors to beware of poisonous snakes, and sure enough I saw a green bamboo viper (青竹絲) slithering across the trail.

The main drawback to this hiking trail is that it is some distance from the nearest road. To get to the start of the trail you have to walk for almost an hour or more. However, you start from the Wufengqi Waterfalls park, which allows you to kill two (or more) birds with one stone. You can see the falls, walk the Marian trail, and also enjoy the swimming area and riverside park downstream from Wufengqi. And since the trail is so far from the roads, it gives you a chance to get deep into the mountains and experience some unspoiled scenery. Although the trail takes time to reach, it is still fairly popular because it is so beautiful. Even on weekdays there you will encounter a number of fellow treckers.

To get to the trailhead, you can either take the scenic route or else save time by a shortcut through the Wufengqi park. The official path toward the trail starts at the Wufengqi parking lot next to the river downstream from the falls. Walk upstream from the parking lot. The path goes past a pretty riverside park which is extremely popular among families - kids love catching minnows in the shallow water here. Continue upstream and past the swimming area. The trail crosses over a bridge and then continues up a dirt road. After passing along a series of switchbacks up the mountain, you will eventually come to an unusual round Catholic church modeled after the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.

To get to the church more quickly, just park as close as possible to the falls, walk past the food and souvenir stands and up toward the falls. Below the second waterfall is a path to the left which goes toward the third waterfall. Instead of ascending to the third waterfall, just keep going straight - this path keeps going along the side of the mountain and right toward the church.

Whichever way you get to the church, once you are there you follow the road which runs to the left of the church complex and up the mountain. Above the church is a nice view of Jiaoxi and the ocean. Follow this road (made of dirt and rocks) until you get to the trailhead.

If you take the long route all the way from the parking lot, it will take 70 or 80 minutes to reach the start of the trail. The shortcut through the waterfall area will get you there in about 50 minutes.

The Marian trail itself is a little more than 1.6 kilometers long and takes about two hours (or more) to walk up and down - depending on how fast you go. The trail is decent quality - dirt and crushed stone reinforced with logs for most of the way, with stone steps in steep spots. If you don't want to tackle the whole thing, the first 400 meters of the trail are particularly beautiful. This section runs through dense subtropical rainforest beside a rocky stream.

After leaving the stream the trail ascends steeply trough the forest. Unfortunately it ends in an anticlimax. The area at the top has been "developed" by Catholics into a place of prayer. This involved building an extremely ugly concrete pond, and rough concrete steps up to an uneven platform with a crucifix on the peak. There is a forlorn little hostel to the side which is used by groups of Catholic visitors who arrange in advance to stay the night. The overall effect is pretty hideous.

However, when there isn't too much fog, the view from the crucifix platform is amazing. You can see all the way down to the ocean, with a spectacular view of almost the entire Lanyang plain all the way down past Suao. In the other direction, there is a strange landscape of high grassy mountains which extends into the distance toward Taipei county. This is surely one of the most spectacular vistas in Taiwan.

Houdong River Bicycle Path 猴洞溪自行車道

This is a short but high quality cycling path just to the north of Jiaoxi. I have also seen it referred to as the Shanming 善明 or Ercheng 二城 bike path.

The best place to get on the bike path is Road 2 - the main road from Jiaoxi and Toucheng. If you're heading north from Jiaoxi, after you pass the Number 5 highway interchange, you will soon come to a little bridge beside two little temples. These are Fude temple 福德廟 and Ruiyang temple 瑞陽廟. There is a little parking lot between them. Also near the bridge is Yingfeng 迎風 cafe and a concrete pillar erected by the Lions club. An excellent large bilingual map standing at the start of the bike path will get you oriented.

The bike path follows the river on both sides. The best part of path heads west (upsteam toward the mountains). This is an incredibly wide dedicated bicycle path - bigger and better than a lot of country roads. And the river along this stretch has been beautifully landscaped. To the side of the path are rice paddies and guava orchards. Everything about this streth of the path is wonderful. The only problem is - it's really short. If you ride down to the highway underpass and back, it will take less than ten minutes.

However, there are a couple of things you can do while you're here.

Once you get to the highway, you can park your bike and walk up the stone and concrete path that runs next to the river. This leads to Houdong Waterfall. (see my blog entry) which is well worth the 15 minute walk.

Afterwards you can get back on your bike and explore the neighborhood on the other side of the highway overpass. The neighborhood that runs near the mountains has some pleasant parts, as houses alternate with fields.

Head back to the two temples, cross over the bridge, and keep going east (downstream) along the river. This bike path is much narrower, but it's in decent shape. The only problem is that every time the path intersects with a street, there are metal barriers to keep scooters off the bike path. Unfortunately, these also block bicycles, so you have to stop and lift your bike over the barrier. It's an odd design, but not a problem.

This stretch is nice, but not nearly as scenic as the path upstream. Even so, in summer the rice paddies that line river are beautiful. In winter the paddies just empty mud, but you will have a chance to see some migratory birds.

Feel free to get off the bike trail and explore the little roads that cut through the rice paddies. The landscape is flat and you won't encounter many cars here, so it's easy cycling.

When the bike trail comes to an end, if you like you can get on the little road beside the river and keep going. This will take you all the way to where the Houdong River merges into larger rivers and eventually to the sea. The landscape becomes steadily less scenic as you pass by industrial areas and fish ponds.

If you just do the dedicated bicycle path along the river, the whole route will take less than half an hour. But this path is just the starting point for investigating the surrounding little country roads and rice paddies. You can spend as much time as you want cycling around the area.

Wengyao Roast Chicken 甕窯雞

Although there are quite a few restaurants in Jiaoxi, most of them aren't that great. However, this restaurant is superb. Most people would agree that it's the best food in Jiaoxi. Because the roast chicken here is so delicious, there is always a mob - even on weekdays. On weekends you might not be able to get a table unless you come during off hours.

The specialty of the house is chicken which has been slowly smoked over tropical longan wood. This is surely one of the world's great roast chickens. The meat is gently flavored with cumin, an unexpected flavor which isn't what one usually
associates with Taiwanese food.

In addition to the signature roast chicken, there is also a full menu of other dishes. Most people just order a chicken (you have to buy a whole chicken - they don't sell halves), some vegetable dishes, and rice. They offer some unusual local vegetables such as different kinds of seaweed, mushrooms, betal nut flower, and wild vegetables one never sees in the big city. Most of these are cooked Yilan style with lots of "tree nuts" (shuzi 樹子).

You order and pay for the meal before you sit down. If you want beer or another beverage, you have to get it yourself and pay for it separately from the main meal. There is free soup available. You have to get it yourself.

When they bring you the chicken, they will give you two pairs of gloves - one is made of thin plastic, the other is a pair of thick cloth work gloves. First you put on the plastic gloves. These keep your hands from getting greasy. Then you put on the work gloves. These keep you from burning your hands on the hot bird. The chicken is whole, so you have to rip it apart before you can eat it.

The restaurant is located on the main road through Jiaoxi just north of the hot spring area. There is a huge red sign with piles of firewood outside. The address is 7 Jiaoxi Road, section 7. There is addditional parking just on the same side of the road north of the restaurant.

Here is a link to their website: http://www.0918717288.com/

Tangweigou Hot Spring Park 湯圍溝溫泉公園

This long thin park in the middle of Jiaoxi, not far from the train station, is the source of the famous local hot spring. An open stream of hot spring water runs through the park, and both tourists and locals come here to soak their feet in the hot spring water and chat. There are also several pools for foot soaking. Unlike the hot spring park in Beitou, this water is clean (the water running through the park in Beitou is discharge from the surrounding hot spring - you might occasionally see a turd floating downstream). You can walk upstream and see where the hot spring comes out of the ground, so the water here is pristine.

Besides foot soaking, in the evenings people gather here to walk along the boardwalk which runs the length of the park. There are a few vendors to the side where you can buy local produce (guavas, kumquats, and so on) and also some snacks. On weekdays this park is fairly quiet, but on weekends there are quite a few people here. The number of vendors increases considerably and on one side the place becomes a bit like a night market.

There are two places to bathe in the hot spring water in the park. One is the decrepit old shack in toward the west end of the park. This is a communal naked hot spring for men only. In fact, the only people who go here are old lmen from Jiaoxi. It's free, but that's the only good thing you can say about this place. The patrons are pretty creepy and the unpleasant atmosphere scares off most people. But if you're absolutely determined to get a free hot spring bath, this is the place.

The other option is the new communcal hot spring building on the far side of the park. This is an extremely beautiful building. In fact, it's something of an architectural gem. The interior is all wood - even the hot spring pools are lined with wood.

Admission is only NT 80, and senior citizens (over 65) get in for just NT 40. There are two communal naked pools - with men and women on different sides. Considering how nice this place is, the low admission price is a huge bargain. As a result, this hot spring is much too popular. On cold days you can expect a crowd, even during the week. On weekends don't even think about it - this place will be bursting at the seams.

Another problem is that unlike every other communal hot spring I've ever been to, the temperature isn't centrally regulated. Instead the patrons can determine how much hot and cold water goes into pool. There's ALWAYS at least one crazy old guy who likes his bath boiling hot, so the temperature is usually 43 degrees - far beyond most people's comfort zone. I brought an American friend here who had never been to a hot spring before. He ended up on the side of the pool curled up in a fetal position like a burn victim.

At night, there are two cafes at each end of the park. The one of the east serves both drinks and food - mostly Yilan specialties made with the local scallion and other vegetables. The one on the west serves only drinks. However, both serve freshly brewed microbrewery beer. I've tasted the dark malt, which I liked. I wasn't crazy about the wheat beer. I thought it had a funny taste. I have yet to try the others beers. One of their beers is brewed with seaweed, which I haven't dared to try. If you've always wanted to try seaweed flavored beer, this is your big chance.

In the evenings, there is often a singer with guitar singing old Taiwanese songs for tips at one cafe or the other. Even on the hottest days, there's a cool breeze here in the evening. A foot bath, beer, and quiet music is a pleasant way to end the day.

Da Jiaoxi 大礁溪

The name of this place is misleading. Even though it's called Da Jiaoxi ("Big Jiaoxi"), it's not in Jiaoxi township. In fact this area is just south of Jiaoxi, over the border in Yuanshan,closer to the town of Zhenshan 枕山. Da Jiaoxi is a pretty valley covered with fruit orchards, mostly guava trees. There are some guest houses and other facilities for tourists. People come here for a scenic drive down the little country road through the middle of the valley,

The road you want is Yilan Road 13. First you need to go to the town of Zhenshan 枕山 northwest of Yilan City. Unfortunately, the start of Road 13 isn't well marked. One way to find it is to look for the big temple in the middle of town. Road 13 begins on the left side of the temple. You can also look for signs pointing the way to Huideng High School 惠燈高中, a private school on this road.

Once you're on Road 13, just keep driving and enjoy the pretty scenery. You might want to stop and buy something from the vendors by the side of the road. Of course you should buy some guavas. You can also buy homemade country-style preserved foods such as kumquats pickled in heavy syrup and femented black beans.

There are a couple of places to have a cup of coffee or tea where you can sit outside and enjoy the bucolic scenery.

There are several things to do on this road. The first stop can be reached by going down the road to the left of Hushan Elementary School 湖山國小. This takes you to a pleasant little lake called Wanglongpi 望龍埤, also known as Ruanpi 軟埤. You can either walk around the lake or else have a drink at the little cafe.

Head back to the elementary school. On the right side of the school is a little trail marked by a sign which reads "tiaofu budao" 挑夫步道. This trail leads up the mountain. Although well constructed, when I visited it had been mostly reclaimed by the forest. You can still walk to the top if you want to spend 15 minutes pushing your way through weeds. But it isn't worth the trouble. If the trail has been cleared, however, this would be a good chance to take a short walk through the forest. .

The final stop is at the end of the Road 13. Continue down the road, over the bridge, and follow the road as it veers to the left. You will see lots of signs pointing the way to a guesthouse called Left Bank (Zuo'an 左岸). Just beyond the guesthouse is a swimming spot where people go to splash around in the mountain stream. There isn't any shade here and the water isn't deep, so I wouldn't recommend stopping here unless it's a cloudy day or you have a big beach umbrella. But if you're prepared and just want to enjoy the beautiful natural setting, it's a nice place to spend the day. Since the water is shallow, it's a safe spot to bring small children.

King Car Orchid Farm 金車蘭花園

This large commercial orchid farm, owned by the King Car conglomerate, welcomes tourists. It isn't far from the hot spring area in downtown Jiaoxi, so it's well worth a detour.

There aren't any tours of the green houses. Visitors are welcome to wander around and see how orchids are grown. To the left of the entrance is an area housing a collection of rare orchids. Most of these only bloom in winter when the weather is cooler. At the far end of this room is a door which leads over to the main greenhouses, most of which are devoted to the iconic Taiwanese moth orchid (phalaenopsis).

After seeing the orchids, you will come back to the entrance via a retail area selling plants to visitors. Of course there is a selection of orchids, but they also offer some unusual plants. The prices are about the same as what you would pay at the Jianguo weekend flower market in Taipei, but a plant still makes a great souvenir of Yilan.

On your way out, the gift shop offers a full range of Kavalan whiskey, the famous whiskey produced in Yilan by King Car, the same company which owns these green houses. This unusual flavor of this award winning whiskey is truly excellent and well worth the price.

To get here, take the road next to the Jiaoxi Post Office. At the dead end, turn right. Take the first left and go over the train tracks. This is Dawen Road 大塭路. Keep going until you reach the highway overpass. On one side of the overpass is the Shandori Hotel. On the other side of the overpass is a road. Turn left and follow this little road to the greenhouses.

Wufengqi Waterfalls 五峰旗瀑布

These are the most impressive waterfalls in Yilan county. They are also easy to reach - not too far from the middle of Jiaoxi. The amount of water coming down the falls varies a lot, depending on the season. In summer if it hasn't rained much, the falls can be pretty puny. But in the winter or spring rainy season, or after a summer or autumn typhoon, enormous quantities of water explode down the falls.

This site is incredibly popular on weekends. On weekdays there will probably only be a few people around, but on summer weekends you should expect tour buses and a steady stream of cars. Despite the threat of crowds, the falls are so beautiful that they're still well worth a visit.

To get here, drive south on Road 9 through the middle of Jiaoxi. Turn left on Dazhong Road 大忠路. Keep going straight. This road turns into Wufeng Road 五峰路 and takes you all the way to the falls. There are some signs pointing the way to the falls, and also signs to the Royal Jiaoxi Hotel, which is near the falls.

On Dazhong Road you will pass the entrance to the road which goes up to the Old Paoma Trail 跑馬古道 on your right. This is a popular mountain forest walk. You can do this walk on your way back down if you're in the mood for some exercise. See my post on this trail.

Eventually the road will dead end in front of two rows of vendors selling food and souvenirs. Park wherever you can and walk past the vendors and up the trail.

There are three waterfalls. The first two are very close - you can walk up the trail in just a few minutes. But the highest waterfall can only be reached after a strenuous hike.

The third waterfall is the lowest. This isn't very impressive, but you can walk down to the water and splash around in front of the falls.

Keep walking up the trail and soon you will get to the second falls. These are very impressive when there has been rain recently. They are quite high and surrounded by subtropical vegetation.

Unfortunately, the first falls at the top have been closed since the summer of 2009 because of a landslide that occurred during a typoon. To reach the first falls, intead of heading back to the entrance, on your way down you should turn right onto the other trail. If you reach a gate on your right which is closed, this means that the first waterfall hasn't been reopened yet.

If you can go up to the first falls, be prepared for a strenous climb. You have to walk up steep stone steps for about half a kilometer to reach the first waterfall. This is a very strenuous climb, akin to walking up a skyscraper (only inside a steam bath), so don't do it unless you're ready for the climb. Half way up, you'll be wondering if this could possibly be worth it. Don't despair - keep going! The scene at the top is well worth the climb. The first waterfall is huge and gorgeous - a beautiful reward for the steep hike.

If the gate is closed and you can't go up to the first waterfall, keep going down the trail. At the end you will come to a little paved road. Take the steps to the side leading uphill. These lead to a little Catholic church which has a pretty view of the first falls far above in the distance. The road in back of the church leads to the Marian trail (see my post).

On your way back down, as you pass the vendors you might consider buying some wild honey. In addition to maintaining his own hives, the bee guy here also raids hives in the forest and sells honey he's stolen from angry wild bees. This is the best honey you'll ever taste.

If you feel like a swim and brought along a swimsuit, you should walk down from the vendors area to the riverbed. Follow the river downstream for a few minutes and you will come to a large swimming area - it's like a big swimming pool. This little reservoir holds the river water temporarily to create a swimming area. The cement is a bit slimy with algea, but the water is pleasantly cool. This swimming place is popular on weekends, but during the week there won't be too many people here. The cold fresh water is a good alternative to a hot sandy beach.

A bit further downstream is a riverside park which is very popular with families. Kids love wading in the shallow water.

Dezikou River Bike Path 得子口溪自行車道

This bike path passes through the Wendi wetlands, one of the most famous bird watching spots in northern Taiwan. This area consists mosty of rice paddies, so it's also a chance to get a feeling for life in rural Taiwan.

For most of the way, the bike path goes along the top of a series of flood embankments. The path is well maintained and it's a smooth ride and completely flat most of the way. The entire route takes about one hour round trip.

If you visit in late autumn or winter, although the paddies are dry and filled with mud and brown stubble, you will have the chance to observe flocks of migratory birds in the dry paddies. The birds differ according to the time of year, as they pass through the area at different times during their migrations. Depending on when you go, you might see large numbers of egrets, cranes, herons, ducks, geese, and many other migratory water fowl. Sometimes a few endangered black spoonbills spend the winter here.

Another good time to visit is when the rice is highest right before the harvest, such as in early June. Rice is a beautiful crop, and it provides the perfect backdrop for a bike ride. A number of little rest spots have been constructed along the bike path. These places are good for bird watching or just gazing at the rice paddies.

The best starting point for the ride is next to the bridge at the intersection of Dawen Road 大塭路and Wendi Road 塭底路, which is near the coast road. To get there, take the Number 9 Road (the main street of Jiaoxi) to the Jiaoxi Post Office. Turn onto the little street that runs next to the post office. This street soon dead ends. Turn right at the dead end. Then immediately turn left again (next to the shop selling steamed buns) and crosss over the railroad tracks. This is Dawen Road. Drive down this road until you are almost at the coast. You will see a metal statue of a giant shrimp on your right. (This area used to have a lot of shrimp farms.) Cross over the bridge. The beginning of the bike path is on your right. If you have trouble finding it this place, just tell people you're looking for the giant shrimp.

Ride your bike on the left side of the river, heading upstream. You want to stay on the left bank of the river. At one point you will have to cross over to the right bank for a short distance, but get back onto the left bank as soon as possible. You will go under several overpasses and cross a couple of small roads. This stretch of bike path mostly runs on top of the flood embankment, looking down on rice paddies to your left and river on your right. After half an hour or so you will come to the Number 9 Road. This is a very busy road with a concrete median in the middle, and marks the end of the path. Turn around and head back to the giant shrimp.

On the return leg, after riding for awhile you can eventually cross over to other bank. The path soon goes down and you are riding next to the flood wall. This stretch of the path takes you past a sleepy village. People visiting from Taipei will think they've entered a time machine. This town feels like nothing much has changed in the last couple of decades, and it gives a feeling of small town life in rural Taiwan. There are a few old red brick farmhouses along the way, so you can get a taste of the traditional rural architecture. If you're thirsty, a couple of old fashioned country stores sell bottled drinks. Eventually the path will take you back up onto the embankment for the final part of the return ride.

When you get back to Jiaoxi you might want to stop and try the steamed buns at the shop next to the railroad tracks. The times when the buns come out of the steamer are posted on the wall. Local people will line up patiently for a long time to buy some of these famous buns, and consider them one of the best snacks in Jiaoxi.

Old Paoma Trail 跑馬古道

This is one of the most popular mountain trails in Yilan. During the nineteenth century it was one of the main thoroughfares between Taipei and the east coast. Pioneers and merchants walked this trail to get to and from the Lanyang Plain. Now the trail is maintained by the government, not just because of its historical significance but also due to the great scenery. Even on weekdays you will run into several people walking the trail. On weekends there can be quite a few visitors.

Although you are climbing the whole time, the slope is gradual with no stone steps and the trail is very well maintained, so it's an easy walk. The trail surface alternates between dirt and gravel with flat stones.

As you walk up the mountain path, in places the foliage opens up to reveal spectacular views across the Yilan Plain to the Pacific. Higher up you have a postcard perfect view of Guishan Island.

The trail cuts through the mountain forest. Along the way you can hear the water from Houdong Falls far below. Near the top of the trail the foliage gradually changes from lowland subtropical rainforest to evergreens and bamboo. Lots of monkeys live in these mountains, and if you're lucky you might see some. I saw two the day I visited. If you notice a rustle in the tops of the trees, stop and take a look. You almost always hear monkeys before you see them. Also, along the way is a little shrine to the mountain gods, which is a good example of the makeshift spirit of Taiwanese folk religion.

Near the top of the trail is a little mountain spring called Houdongkeng Stream 猴洞坑溪, which feeds the Houdong Falls below. If you climb over some rocks, you will find several little pools which are hidden from view. There you can strip down in privacy and cool off in the icy mountan water, which feels great on a hot day.

There are two entrances to the trail - one at the bottom (south) near Jiaoxi and the other in the mountains (north) at the top. Almost everyone walks from Jiaoxi uphill, as the south entrance is much easier to get to, and you also get to walk downhill for the last half. The entire walk takes less than two hours.

To get to the trail head, take the road out of Jiaoxi toward Wufengqi Falls and the Royal Jiaoxi Hotel. Turn at the first road on the right - there is a sign here marking this as the road to the Old Paoma Trail. There is usually someone selling snacks at this intersection. (If you get as far as the Royal Jiaoxi Hotel, turn around and go back - you've gone much too far.) Follow this twisting narrow paved road uphill until you get to a large wooden sign that marks the start of the trail. There is room for parking here. Walk along the trail until you get to the paved road at the top, then just turn around and go back down the same way.

Houdong Waterfall 猴洞瀑布

Houdong Waterfall is the first scenic spot in Yilan county you come to after exiting the Xueshan tunnel from Taipei. The trail to the waterfall runs right underneath the highway.

Unless there has been a lot of rain, the waterfall is just a thin stream of water that races down several cataracts in a steep ravine. It's a narrow but pretty place, and there is a fine view across the Lanyang plain to the Pacific from the top. However, if you just want to look at a beautiful waterfall, you should go to Wufengqi Falls above Jiaoxi, which are much bigger.

The reason to go to Houdong is to swim. At the top of the falls are a series of wonderful shallow rocky pools. On a hot day, the water is very cold, clean and refreshing - the perfect mountain swimming hole.If you go here on a weekday you'll probably have the place to yourself. You can climb over some rocks and into one of the higher pools for complete privacy and enjoy a clothing-optional swimming hole.

The path to the waterfall isn't well marked, so you might have to hunt to find the trailhead. You can get onto the path from several places, but most are hidden away down a maze of narrow winding roads in a residential neighborhood. The easiest entrance to find is underneath the No. 9 highway. Between the Xueshan tunnel and the main road in Jiaoxi is a river. The trail begins on the left side of the river, under the highway.There is a small sign in Chinese near the road, but the sign is easy to miss. Just look for the river. Park on the left side of the river and start walking uphill along the stone path. Soon the you will be walking next to a large riverbed which is usually dry unless it has recently rained. Keep going. You will reach the falls after an easy 25 minute walk.