tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2879157534950867882024-03-12T17:44:35.885-07:00The Yilan Guruan opinionated guide to Yilan county, Taiwan (maybe the best place on earth)Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-57549944900051870222011-09-05T00:57:00.000-07:002011-09-05T01:52:50.848-07:00RSL Cold Spring Resort in Suao 瓏山林蘇澳冷熱泉度假飯店<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">This is quite simply one of the best hotels in Yilan - and in Taiwan. It's quite expensive, but you get value for your money. And the opportunity to soak in the cold spring water during the hottest days of summer, immersed in unapologetic luxury, is pure bliss.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">This is an odd location for such a luxurious hotel. Suao is the only part of Yilan which was developed for heavy industry. The town has some large cement factories and steel foundries, which makes it feel more like Kaohsiung than Yilan. The town of Suao is basically an eyesore, despite a pretty setting wedged between mountains and sea. As you drive toward the hotel you'll wonder whether you've made a wrong turn somewhere. And the hotel is in a decidedly unscenic place, next to a gas station, because that's where the cold spring happens to be. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;"><img src="webkit-fake-url://290378C8-220C-47DB-B668-BA583BF4CB9E/image.tiff" /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">Don't worry. The hotel itself is absolutely magnificent, and turns inward on itself to feature the array of courtyard cold and hot spring pools. Once you go inside you're deliberately cut off from the dusty streets outside and encircled by impressive architecture. The style is Southern California Palladian, and it looks like everything was magically transplanted from Beverly Hills. The staff maintains the highest level of service I've ever encountered in Taiwan, and they all seem to speak sufficient English.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">In the courtyard at the center of the hotel are a dozen gorgeous pools with spring water of various temperatures - cold, cool, warm, and hot. The pools and surrounding Italianate sculpture are all quite tasteful and elegant. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">I had purchased a special package which included room, dinner and breakfast, spa, cocktail in the bar, drink by the pool, and the naked spring on the roof. I recommend getting the package - it's a good deal. Because we had a package of activities, we were busy the whole time. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">After bathing in the various courtyard pools, we went for the spa. The spa area was very beautiful - everything was first rate. The spa treatment was basically a relaxing rubbing massage (instead of the usual painful Chinese acupressure). Afterwards we were served herb tea in a little lounge area.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">Meals qualify as haute cuisine. I arranged in advance for the vegetarian option, and I was very satisfied. Everything was very tasty, featured local ingredients, and was elaborately presented. The people in the kitchen definitely know what they're doing.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">After dinner we went to the impressive bar for a cocktail. A duo was playing live jazz, which I enjoyed. However, all of the bathing and spa had turned us into jelly, so we just ended going to bed early. Even though we were in a tatami room (which came with the package) and sleeping on the floor, I slept better than I had in a long time.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">The next morning, after a beautifully plated breakfast, we went upstairs to the nude spring. As with the rest of the resort, the nude spring area is also very elegant. There was only one other person in the men's area, which was surprising. If you don't have a package, you have to pay extra to use the nude spring, so most people seem to just stick to the courtyard pools downstairs. The men's nude spring features hot springs and two cold springs, one pair inside and another pair outside, so you can look at either the mountains or harbor while bathing. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">As far as I could tell, I was the only foreign guest that day. About half of the guests had brought their children, which surprised me. In the US a hotel this elegant would be a romantic retreat for couples, but Taiwanese seem to consider anything with a swimming pool a place to take kids. The other guests were very well behaved and the kids weren't a problem. However, all of the kids made the dining room a bit noisy, which was odd for a restaurant serving such high end food.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">Don't bother to dress up. Despite the high price and surroundings, most of the other guests dressed like they had bought their entire wardrobe from the clearance bin at Carrefour. As far as I can tell, the only time most Taiwanese people ever dress up in their entire life is for their wedding photos.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:arial;font-size:medium;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:arial;font-size:medium;">Although the hotel is famous for its unique cold spring, because there is also hot spring water this would also be a nice getaway in winter. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:arial;font-size:medium;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:arial;font-size:medium;">To get here just drive south along the highway to the very end and exit at Suao. Then follow the signs to the hotel. You have to make a few turns to get there, but the route is well marked with large signs and billboards. You can unload in front of the hotel, then park in the lot on the left side of the hotel.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:arial;font-size:medium;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:arial;font-size:medium;">Here is the hotel website:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">
<br /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:100%;">www.rslhotel.com/</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-85605888693524370712011-06-09T04:54:00.000-07:002011-06-09T05:33:54.523-07:00Old Shikong Trail 石空古道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE4HwN7vHA_1p3Lz7LfE0miXBUOlxgkN7pmLvTHwZuBpzdmFRfS5KB-2712KgtAqYmZyjf9reRnvLtZ2fVFxedYdPigDlM4asUanrodvdS29dtJIHc1EsdpfUOhS_L3m3vlzeqYcQNiQg/s1600/shikong+025.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 239px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE4HwN7vHA_1p3Lz7LfE0miXBUOlxgkN7pmLvTHwZuBpzdmFRfS5KB-2712KgtAqYmZyjf9reRnvLtZ2fVFxedYdPigDlM4asUanrodvdS29dtJIHc1EsdpfUOhS_L3m3vlzeqYcQNiQg/s320/shikong+025.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616196697941082466" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">Even though this mountain trail is near the prime tourist sites in Toucheng, it isn't very well known. Nor is it particularly beautiful or dramatic. However, this ordinariness is the trail's main charm. Because the trail isn't very popular, it feels more natural than the major tourist trails.<span style="font-family:arial;"> It's an extremely convenient way to get into the mountains for a taste of typical Yilan rainforest.<span style="font-family:arial;"> It is a short walk from Waiao beach and Wushigang, two of the most popular tourist spots in Yilan. So it's possible to take a walk in the mountains, then go back to the beach and take a dip in the ocean to cool off afterward. There is also an air conditioned coffee shop in the beach visitors center where you can rest and cool off after your hike.</span></span></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />The trail theoretically runs for about two and a half kilometers, but the final kilometer has been paved and made into a rough concrete road which is completely devoid of charm. So the trail is now only about 1.6 kilometers long. Round trip takes about 1 hour 45 minutes. The trail is pretty basic - mostly just a dirt path. In some places you have to climb up or down slippery mossy stones. Given the condition of the trail, you should definitely wear appropriate trekking shoes. You will probably also want to avoid coming here after a heavy rain, as I imagine that it gets very muddy.<br /><br />As you start to ascend, you will have a superb view of the ocean. Because the mountains are right next to the sea, you can get a fantastic close-up panorama of the ocean, rocky beaches, and </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUw3_sqEvQT6Xu4xf8AQXyVYZLTwucXK1fCVF2Whkh5W3uglq2sgbVlyrs5ltaRm7THi7ZVCF8eydiCPtCwfLd5F0_zx7LKb1prPL9F8w5FvWAzKuev6GEkK9cfkTdiuf6SlvFFHwtnjQ/s1600/shikong+030.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 239px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUw3_sqEvQT6Xu4xf8AQXyVYZLTwucXK1fCVF2Whkh5W3uglq2sgbVlyrs5ltaRm7THi7ZVCF8eydiCPtCwfLd5F0_zx7LKb1prPL9F8w5FvWAzKuev6GEkK9cfkTdiuf6SlvFFHwtnjQ/s320/shikong+030.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616196708895078754" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">Guishan Island from here. After you get to the top of the first mountain and start going inland, you find yourself in a very quiet subtropical rainforest. The trail runs next to a stream, which is very pretty in spots. Unfortunately some selfish people living downhill have run water pipes through the forest to get free spring water from the source, and these pipes mar the scenery for much of the way.<br /><br />At the top the trail exits the forest and you find yourself out in the open. If you like you can keep going and walk down the concrete road, but there isn't much to see. The only reason to go forward is to visit a little shrine which dates from the Japanese colonial period, which is located just beyond the forest. Also, the concrete road runs next to a stream which has places where you can bathe in summer. It's a good place to soak in the cold mountain water on a hot afternoon.<br /><br />The entrance to the trail is easy to find. Directly across the street from the large yellow visitor's center at Waiao beach, north of Toucheng town, is a little road which passes under the railroad tracks. After you go under the tracks you will see two temples. The big temple is called Jietian Gong 接天宮. There is a big brown map of the Shikong trail on the right side of the temple, and </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBv6I8W3uMXJvDaliO00Gi_uWGh3-L5HYuQBtm0glidmJaJrHfBUXNtXcwfr-4xmKBpmLvZ1vf2agVa3PhFJ-GAp8Jn4Ey9j4hJNLi3GIouJ5as-CoOr3i065k23OwH8sKJO-XBIkjfWo/s1600/shikong+024.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 239px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBv6I8W3uMXJvDaliO00Gi_uWGh3-L5HYuQBtm0glidmJaJrHfBUXNtXcwfr-4xmKBpmLvZ1vf2agVa3PhFJ-GAp8Jn4Ey9j4hJNLi3GIouJ5as-CoOr3i065k23OwH8sKJO-XBIkjfWo/s320/shikong+024.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616196711773308002" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">signs in Chinese point the way to the trail head. You can park next to the temples and start walking north next to the tracks, or you can just walk over from the beach. The path along the train tracks which leads to the trail head doesn't look too promising - it becomes very narrow and you will wonder if you've made a mistake. Don't worry - this is the way to get to the trail. When you see a train platform on the other side of the tracks, you will notice some concrete stairs leading upward on your left. A white arrow with red characters marks the trail entrance. Just go up here and keep walking.<br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-92066565646505131312011-06-09T04:25:00.000-07:002011-06-09T04:53:29.106-07:00Niannian Restaurant 年年小館<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MloYBEmgqgiZTOAKcR8n2FzD778heJ0OtRBY4wbvbQm0Uz_dQDznKS3DBpx5uOQmXKkTwvFZibd_wPwPJrtGRjx-y9uysvL8lrgl0nfLSV_cSv73ahghTNXNNG0ymHu88q3PC3q02RU/s1600/niannian.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 251px; height: 201px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MloYBEmgqgiZTOAKcR8n2FzD778heJ0OtRBY4wbvbQm0Uz_dQDznKS3DBpx5uOQmXKkTwvFZibd_wPwPJrtGRjx-y9uysvL8lrgl0nfLSV_cSv73ahghTNXNNG0ymHu88q3PC3q02RU/s320/niannian.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616186205033901650" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Yilan isn't famous for its fine restaurants. Local people are mostly very traditional and rarely eat out, so the restaurant culture isn't very well developed. Most restaurants I've been to here aren't anything special. However, Niannian is an exception. I've eaten at the Jiaoxi branch a number of times, and the food is consistently good. What's more, they specialize in traditional Yilan dishes, so this is the place to come for a taste of the local cuisine.<br /><br />There are three branches of the restaurant. The main branch is on the north side of Yilan City. I've never been there, but a friend tells me that the food there is better than at the branch locations. The Jiaoxi branch is conveniently located on the main road that cuts through town not far north of the train station area. There is also a branch in Luodong.<br /><br />The menu is very extensive and is basically an encyclopedia of Yilan food. One page is even devoted to Yilan snack foods like you would find in a night market. Many of the dishes here are distinctive regional foods, such as shrimp cooked in hot stones, spicy lemon chicken, chicken soup with medicinal herbs, pork ribs with kumquats, and anything with scallions. Ask your waitress for recommendations of unique local foods.<br /><br />The addresses are -<br /><br />Main restaurant:<br />Huanshi East Road, Section 2, no. 777, Yilan City </span>宜蘭市環市東路二段777號<br />http://039373016.eyilan.tw/<br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Jiaoxi branch:<br /></span>115 Jiaoxi Road, Section 5, Jiaoxi 宜蘭縣礁溪鄉礁溪路五段115號<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://039875252.eyilan.tw/<br /><br />Luodong branch:<br />126 Yangming Road, Luodong </span>宜蘭縣羅東鎮陽明路126號<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">http://039567858.eyilan.tw/<br /><br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-73020331057127933752011-03-24T05:17:00.000-07:002011-03-24T06:05:09.843-07:00Ah Xian Hot Spring 阿先溫泉會館<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYYDMj0oxqxCufgHFN5bQy2PwDxPY6d3PV90JClg-VUiAT4NiiwEGyy4cnWeBF2eYsbLyxHFCGk__ED-u18ynCtL6XtwDG2cCr2c-b6co6OAg6LvTvP3TOyGDF9zt9xE0nAvsgRrZ93E/s1600/A+Xian+2.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYYDMj0oxqxCufgHFN5bQy2PwDxPY6d3PV90JClg-VUiAT4NiiwEGyy4cnWeBF2eYsbLyxHFCGk__ED-u18ynCtL6XtwDG2cCr2c-b6co6OAg6LvTvP3TOyGDF9zt9xE0nAvsgRrZ93E/s320/A+Xian+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587630432465626434" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">I probably shouldn't tell anyone about this place, because the main reason I like it is that it isn't crowded. This certainly isn't the nicest hot spring in Yilan. Nor is it the cheapest. Nor is it beautiful or elegant. In fact the facilities are worn and a bit tacky. But it's still my favorite Jiaoxi hot spring. It offers good value for the money, and I appreciate the lack of crowds.<br /><br />This hot spring has something for everyone. The building in front is a hotel. There is a hot spring pool in each guest room if you want to stay overnight.<br /><br />If you just want to bathe in private you can also get a private hot spring room in this building and soak for an hour. These private rooms aren't very big but are certainly ok for a soak.<br /><br />In back (behind the parking lot) are the communal springs. You have to wear a swimsuit in the outdoor spring. This is basically a big swimming pool full of hot water, and is the best option for people with kids, since they can splash around.<br /><br />Inside the two long buildings are separate naked pools for men and women. The men's pool is basically a large swimming pool, with a little pool of cold water and some water jets for back massage. There aren't many communal pools in Jiaoxi, and this one is my favorite. The water is very clean, the temperature is right, and unless the weather is unusually cold, there are usually not many people. I assume that the women's pool is the same.<br /><br />There are lockers for clothes and valuables, but you have to pay a NT 100 deposit to get a key.<br /><br />Be sure to observe the proper etiquette if you use the communal pools. (See my post on Jiaoxi hot springs). Take off your shoes at the entrance to the changing area of communal naked pool. There are shelves on the side for you to put your shoes. Most importantly <span style="font-weight: bold;">be sure to wash off thoroughly at the showers before getting in the pool!</span><span><br /><br />To get here, follow the street away from the train station and keep going uphill past the various hot spring hotels. Where the street forks, turn right. Drive two minutes and you will see a big sign in Chinese for Ah Xian. Turn left and park behind the hotel.<br />The hot spring has an English website:<br /><br />http://www.vipspa.com.tw/eng/p02-1.htm<br /><br /><br /><br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /></span><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-72743125686138999912010-11-29T05:20:00.000-08:002010-11-29T17:45:06.894-08:00Songluo Trail 松羅步道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAh5WwaaCEX23O-o74E98BhD0Q5YcGP_YqnzNWlnrK4mLu_26lapo7iUVuCHQzJGRM_xxr0JAtx80Jo5I8-sZO0SRLx2kf-mZK16YCsREpzB62mNCxTKQp-V8NgCu59jqKeWV04ZiFHB8/s1600/IMG_1086.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAh5WwaaCEX23O-o74E98BhD0Q5YcGP_YqnzNWlnrK4mLu_26lapo7iUVuCHQzJGRM_xxr0JAtx80Jo5I8-sZO0SRLx2kf-mZK16YCsREpzB62mNCxTKQp-V8NgCu59jqKeWV04ZiFHB8/s320/IMG_1086.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544967269355283570" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">This is a fantastic trek which I recommend very highly. It has everything - gorgeous rain forest scenery and a beautiful river all along a fairly easy trail which is easy to access.<br /><br />From the parking lot, you cross the little footbridge and start walking up the concrete road into the hills. You have to walk about two kilometers to reach the trailhead, but you pass by a pretty river along the way, so it's not a hardship.<br /><br />The trail itself is mostly dirt and crushed stone heading uphill at a gentle slope the entire way. At one point you have to cross over a river along a rope bridge, which is fun. And in a couple of places</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg77fn_TsdoupYJpOd-V9oTVqGGioK8Z5bj5TD17mitKSj6AibLalRXj1LCsKkBMXqHzgR0_9HcCUVTcH8das1wjR9UJndGBxyEWGQdQksPUDzikRaNaecjFBdExtAv8O6BRtV7xkqkGuI/s1600/IMG_1081.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg77fn_TsdoupYJpOd-V9oTVqGGioK8Z5bj5TD17mitKSj6AibLalRXj1LCsKkBMXqHzgR0_9HcCUVTcH8das1wjR9UJndGBxyEWGQdQksPUDzikRaNaecjFBdExtAv8O6BRtV7xkqkGuI/s320/IMG_1081.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544967266287783698" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;"> you have to walk over large rocks. The rocks can be kind of slimy, so you should wear good walking shoes.<br /><br />The point is just to admire the beautiful forest and river scenery. There is an amazing array of plant species here - this is what scientists mean when they talk about biodiversity. In particular, there are lots of birds nest ferns growing on the branches of trees, which are a wonderful sight.<br /><br />From the parking lot to the top of the trail is a little more than two kilometers. Walking up and back takes about two hours if you keep moving, but I recommend that you take your time and savor the gorgeous scenery. The forest here is incredibly photogenic, so be sure to bring your camera. (I'm </span><span style="font-family:arial;">lazy so I just take pictures with my iphone - they don't do the scenery justice.) This place is paradise for nature photographers.<br /><br />The only problem with this place is that it's very popular. The parking lot is huge, which is a bad sign. I visited on a warm Monday in November and I only saw two other people on the trail. But I bet there are a lot of people on weekends during the high season. So if at all possible, visit on a weekday.<br /><br />To get here, take Road 7 west from Yilan City and drive up into the mountains. You will pass a long bridge over the river, with a nearby gas station. Soon after you will come to the town of Songluo. </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegWz4TQL2VWMPP5od0RG1Aq3oFSQ3ncBhLA1P_YG0DbXFynowCd-P3n_-0j_HVIusdy9-ZJ8dLTe_W9V43sZipAmsjPFn4GVQL5qhb_Q_Id4Vc886W6qUULIv4LX95NIbc7wKtmy4Cdk/s1600/IMG_1088.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegWz4TQL2VWMPP5od0RG1Aq3oFSQ3ncBhLA1P_YG0DbXFynowCd-P3n_-0j_HVIusdy9-ZJ8dLTe_W9V43sZipAmsjPFn4GVQL5qhb_Q_Id4Vc886W6qUULIv4LX95NIbc7wKtmy4Cdk/s320/IMG_1088.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544967277201357090" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">The trip from downtown Yilan City to Songluo takes about half an hour. This is an aboriginal area - people here belong to the Atayal tribe, so the trail is marked by a big wooden sign with an aboriginal warrior next to the side of the main road. The access road to the trail is on the left side of the town, next to the big wooden sign. Turn right here and follow the access road down to the parking lot.<br /><br />After you've walked the trail, if you have the time I recommend you swing by the nearby Cherry Blossom hot spring (see my post) for a bath. Soaking in the hot water feels wonderful after the hike. To get to the hot spring, get back on Road 7 and keep going west (away from Yilan City). After about 5 minutes you will get to a bridge over the river - the Douniu Bridge 鬥牛橋, with a sign pointing the way to Douniu. Cross the bridge and drive for another 5 minutes. The hot spring is marked by a hot pink sign on the right.<br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-74591966340761380102010-11-29T04:54:00.000-08:002010-11-29T05:19:59.157-08:00Cherry Blossom Hot Spring 櫻花溫泉館<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQ6WBVK9Khd1VSBcVWSAEjR-1Qi593Dd_cEcBLYSyU_U9YxJndI1VY__yuMOXHTBMYohUMim9Wx1ZsgQIqnkav9ZXXQOmcjRwb2fnP-srw918i_Sa2tY0tDeuUp5vwfrm7al1V9eFNLM/s1600/IMG_1094.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQ6WBVK9Khd1VSBcVWSAEjR-1Qi593Dd_cEcBLYSyU_U9YxJndI1VY__yuMOXHTBMYohUMim9Wx1ZsgQIqnkav9ZXXQOmcjRwb2fnP-srw918i_Sa2tY0tDeuUp5vwfrm7al1V9eFNLM/s320/IMG_1094.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544959761228811058" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">This hot spring is in a remote area of Datong 大同 township not far from Road 7. If you happen to be passing by on the way to or from other attractions, it's worth the detour.<br /><br />The setup here is a bit different from most hot springs. Most of the rooms are little huts with a tub big enough for one person, so you bathe in private. A regular room only costs NT 200, which is a real bargain. There are also deluxe rooms equipped with a jacuzzi which cost 500-600 NT, but I don't think this is necessary. The facilities are simple but spotlessly clean.<br /><br />The water here is totally different from the famous calcium carbonate hot springs down in Jiaoxi - in fact it's quite different from all the other hot springs I've ever been to in Taiwan. Here the water has a noticeable sulfur smell and some natural chemical in it stung my eyes slightly (don't worry - stinging eyes are part of the fun). The water is also slightly murky, as it contains some ultra-fine volcanic ash in suspension, giving it an odd slippery feeling.<br /><br />They also serve food here, and rent out campsites for people to pitch their tents. If you want to camp along Road 7, this is the place.<br /><br />To get here, drive west on Road 7 from Yilan City. After a little more than half an hour, you will come to the second bridge over the river. This is the Douniu Bridge 鬥牛橋, which also has a sign marking the way to the town of Douniu. Turn left, cross the river, and keep going. This road is called 7 Bing (7 丙). After about five minutes you will see a big hot pink sign on the right marking the hot spring. (If you get to the next bridge, you've gone too far.)<br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-50089355091671454282010-11-28T03:59:00.000-08:002010-11-28T04:41:01.159-08:00Meihua Lake 梅花湖<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNnxqg_6MGFdKQQfJGFpvXVnDrb2mLrS1f1JcU5Mf06RGe5xsrOe0taLD5CiWysRGqvK5bA849SSRA6ZcDPfjMiiHTu1KYW0LkjVdrNJmGbDg6IMkY6xEbR_DCFv9l7L3qTq9OFTec6Vc/s1600/ShowPicImg.asp"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNnxqg_6MGFdKQQfJGFpvXVnDrb2mLrS1f1JcU5Mf06RGe5xsrOe0taLD5CiWysRGqvK5bA849SSRA6ZcDPfjMiiHTu1KYW0LkjVdrNJmGbDg6IMkY6xEbR_DCFv9l7L3qTq9OFTec6Vc/s320/ShowPicImg.asp" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544579071325795426" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-family:arial;">This lake near Luodong isn't very big, but it's worth a visit if you're in the area. The lake is extremely popular on weekends, so it's not the place to get away from it all and commune with nature. But on weekdays it's usually fairly quiet.<br /><br />There's really nothing in particular to do here - it's just a pretty place. Most people just stroll around the lake and enjoy the scenery. You can also ride a bike around the lake. But it's so small that you can zip around the lake really fast. If this is your main destination, it's probably better to walk and stop several times at the lakeside pavillions to take in the scenery and relax.<br /><br />The lake isn't far from the Lanyang River Bike Path (see my post). You can rent bikes from shops on the road in front of the lake. To get to the riverside bike path, you ride down the access road to the lake and turn left at the corner. Ride uphill and cross the traffic roundabout. The bike path runs along the levee on the south bank of the river. This bike path connects with several other bike paths,</span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbqCGrZIITVgERPwgZj1wEDHIMDpi3AnJI8Fke-MUZgb7byWcp2iz2UaGXrJtHKDHAvJdoVHHyWYfe_6M2FKuc9T-CvTBVrXOfYAIqJNPNZu-Cyxv4qERfhkZqdXDKp0wcDekTB94iQY/s1600/f_24093_1.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 189px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbqCGrZIITVgERPwgZj1wEDHIMDpi3AnJI8Fke-MUZgb7byWcp2iz2UaGXrJtHKDHAvJdoVHHyWYfe_6M2FKuc9T-CvTBVrXOfYAIqJNPNZu-Cyxv4qERfhkZqdXDKp0wcDekTB94iQY/s320/f_24093_1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544579066956235858" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-family:arial;"> so you can ride quite far in several directions from here.<br /><br />There are some shops lining the road leading to the lake which sell snacks and drinks. The specialty seems to be a special Taiwanese sweet which consists of ice cream and shaved peanut brittle wrapped inside a pancake. If you've never had one, it's definitely worth trying.<br /><br />The lake is in Dongshan township, next to the foothills southwest of Luodong. To get there from Luodong, just take a road in the general direction and follow the brown signs to the lake. Road signs aren't Yilan's strongpoint, so I'm afraid it's not possible to give better directions than this. If you're afraid of getting lost, you can just follow the road next to the Lanyang River upstream. Turn left at the roundabout and go downhill to the lake. There is a huge temple on a mountain above the lake. The temple is easily visible from a long distance, so driving toward the big temple might help you get there.<br /></span></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-29562572367261194912010-11-28T03:14:00.000-08:002010-11-28T03:58:17.815-08:00Lanyang River Bicycle Path 蘭陽溪自行車道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPgva35zMb9jyIS1_ZX-3vI-KcNYff32zObiTszoawEdgQw2s5CIXptcN8chiblMQSzIiTrpQ0YGTXQEHHLzmc4eeoM0fZlXknmF8RJ8gQanyuTNoyPGZ9aYWSk-HeN151IgJQR-q4RY/s1600/IMG_1071.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPgva35zMb9jyIS1_ZX-3vI-KcNYff32zObiTszoawEdgQw2s5CIXptcN8chiblMQSzIiTrpQ0YGTXQEHHLzmc4eeoM0fZlXknmF8RJ8gQanyuTNoyPGZ9aYWSk-HeN151IgJQR-q4RY/s320/IMG_1071.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544565680894495922" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">This is an excellent urban cycling path - well built and maintained, and flat the entire way so it's an easy ride. The bike path runs along the top of the flood levy on the south bank of the Lanyang River. On one side you have a view of the Luoyang suburbs (mostly rice paddies and farm houses), and on the other side is the flood plain beside the river. Because the typhoons wash down rich topsoil from the mountains every year, the fertile flood plain is farmed after typhoon season ends. If you ride from fall to spring, you can watch the farmers tending their crops.<br /><br />The bike path is pretty long, so you can start wherever you want. Riding the entire length and back takes about 2 1/2 hours. It runs from the mouth of the Lanyang River up to the foothills. Halfway along the route you pass by the Luodong Sports Park, which is a big popular park with many recreational facilities. You might want to make a detour and take a look. At the point where the bike path dead ends upstream, it's an easy ride along a local road to get to Meihua Lake (see my post), which is worth a visit. To get to Meihua Lake, ride upstream until the path comes to an end at a traffic roundabout. Cross the roundabout (be careful! - roundabouts are bad news for cyclists) and take the road going downhill. After a couple of minutes you will see a brown sign pointing the way to the lake. Turn right and follow this road to the lake. There are some shops along this road selling snacks in case you're hungry or thirsty.<br /><br />One great thing about this bike path is its central location. It connects with several other bike paths, so from here you can get to quite a few places. If you cross over to the north bank of the river at the </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPwb5JhsBuDACDoa-ZShHvvY_qTi5zr7TWTCnsc8w1C0jUzmRXZdS2ATdnoPZ27xG2_RHVPfX32h1JVXQXSN3eV4AKU12cbuP1KcdjIhnPAZF1-ckKhWsZx18NX6dbWJk9zeCy2XoIRb0/s1600/IMG_1074.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPwb5JhsBuDACDoa-ZShHvvY_qTi5zr7TWTCnsc8w1C0jUzmRXZdS2ATdnoPZ27xG2_RHVPfX32h1JVXQXSN3eV4AKU12cbuP1KcdjIhnPAZF1-ckKhWsZx18NX6dbWJk9zeCy2XoIRb0/s320/IMG_1074.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544565686473933618" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">Qingzhou Bridge 清洲橋, you can get on the Annong River Bike Path 安農溪自行車道, which you can ride as far as Sanxing 三星,which is popular with Taiwanese tourists. Near the mouth of the Lanyang River, you can cross over to the north side and get on the Coastal Bike Path (see my post), which I highly recommend. Or, near the mouth of the Lanyang River you can turn right and follow the little local roads south to get on the short southern Coastal Bike Path, or else the Dongshan River Bike Path 冬山河自行車道 which runs through Dongshan River Park next to the Center for Traditional Performing Arts. You can also easily get to several smaller bike paths from here, or else explore the surrounding neighborhoods.<br /><br />If you don't have a bike, you can rent one at Meihua Lake. To get to the river from the lake, just take the road away from the lake and turn left at the first corner. Follow this road uphill for a few minutes to the traffic roundabout. On the other side is the beginning of the Lanyang River Bike Path.<br /><br />One problem with this bike path is that there's almost no shade - you're exposed to the sun almost the entire way. On a summer day, it will be a really hot ride. Be sure to put on sunscreen, wear a hat, and drink plenty of water.<br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-10983155682021071402010-11-27T01:24:00.000-08:002010-11-27T01:40:17.795-08:00Dongshan Tea Farms 冬山茶園<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb385KVrOMXoL5DrPE6aaxsumywgNHGbQNiQmQur5OYkQHQ-o4_-FE6XT48oY3ffub1Nm-oqz2Xz1DOxMtkD8o6vynDy7EYWkWeQScjtYYLPIZ529yK305smgoACaugTpjAyK-4kTpXcs/s1600/IMG_1064.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb385KVrOMXoL5DrPE6aaxsumywgNHGbQNiQmQur5OYkQHQ-o4_-FE6XT48oY3ffub1Nm-oqz2Xz1DOxMtkD8o6vynDy7EYWkWeQScjtYYLPIZ529yK305smgoACaugTpjAyK-4kTpXcs/s320/IMG_1064.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544160327194384802" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Lowland Yilan isn't famous for its tea, and if you mention Yilan tea to people from other parts of Taiwan, chances are they've never heard of it. Neverheless, there are quite a few tea farms on the hills and mountains in the southwest part of Dongshan township south of Luodong.<br /><br />Tea is an attractive crop, and the sight of neatly trimmed hedges of tea sloping down hillsides creates a unique and appealing landscape. For anyone interested in exploring this tea region, there is no single destination. You just need to drive into the tea country and look around. If you're brave and speak some Chinese, you can just knock on a tea farmer's front door and ask if they have any tea to sell. People here are incredibly friendly, and you will surely be invited in to drink tea and chat. If you sit there a long time, it would be polite to buy at least a token amount of tea.<br /><br />The easier option is to look for someplace set up to serve tea for tourists. There are several places here set up to serve and sell tea, and looking for them provides an excuse for exploring this unusual agricultural landscape.<br /><br />To find the tea farms, you should drive south of Luodong on road 9. At some point,you need to turn right and just drive down the narrow roads and keep your eyes open. The little country roads here have miserable signage, so it's impossible to give proper directions. However, periodically you will come across brown signs set up for tourists. These will point the way to the tea area. There are several dozen farmers growing tea, and the tea area stretches across the entire southwestern corner of the township.Alternatively, you can follow the signs to Lake Meihua 梅花湖. The tea region is south of the lake.<br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-58911265132484008662010-11-27T00:24:00.000-08:002010-11-27T01:40:47.920-08:00Bird Watching in the Wendi Wetlands 在塭底溼地賞鳥<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXWLARIAS93NIxIIDzu5x_QrmvbJoD2l5UpKAPIYYBjBwaWt8KdT79E8mP5hO7zGOlEbZ9Eb12xZ14XaY7nsTSAT8SEdo4-hRyjKHhG7cuToLFXDbhGkJ0LZKEoBhrdqEnQ-bQHvDCBmw/s1600/C99B095M%255B1%255D.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 234px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXWLARIAS93NIxIIDzu5x_QrmvbJoD2l5UpKAPIYYBjBwaWt8KdT79E8mP5hO7zGOlEbZ9Eb12xZ14XaY7nsTSAT8SEdo4-hRyjKHhG7cuToLFXDbhGkJ0LZKEoBhrdqEnQ-bQHvDCBmw/s320/C99B095M%255B1%255D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544157098478068626" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">This is a prime bird watching area. From fall to spring, when it's not raining there are always some bird watchers from Taipei here every weekend.<br /><br />Before the Han came to Yilan, this area was originally a swamp. Settlers cleared and drained it and turned it into rice paddies. However, unlike the south, where farmers can get three crops of rice per year, here they only get one crop due to the cooler weather. The rest of the time the fields are fallow. In winter the fields are empty of vegetation, but the rains fill the paddies with a thin layer of water, recreating wetland conditions which are perfect feeding grounds for many types of birds.<br /><br />Starting in October, migratory birds start to arrive in this area. Some are just passing through on the way to areas farther south, while others spend the winter here. In all bird watchers have spotted more than 170 species of birds in the area - an impressive number for such a small place. These include some big birds (cranes, egrets, herons, ducks) as well as many smaller wetland birds and song birds. Some of the endangered black spoonbills pass through here on the way to nesting grounds in the south. And occasionally a small group of black spoonbills will spend the entire winter here, attracting a horde of excited bird watchers every day.<br /><br />There are three types of migratory birds here. Some spend the summers in places farther north (Siberia, Korea, Hokkaido, Manchuria) then fly south to spend the winter here. Other birds (such as geese) spend the summers in places to the north, then fly through here on their way to winter feeding grounds in the south (such as the Philippines or Vietnam). A third kind of migratory bird spends the summers in Taiwan then flies south to spend the winter in tropical regions.<br /><br />Because the little roads between the rice paddies are so narrow, getting around by bicycle is ideal. Also, a bicycle is quiet so it won't scare away the birds. But a car or scooter is also ok. There are a</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-BaWer0bUmyUVoP67zAnCRyiMgOz0Fd-AAARO64kqxzn97sYWOnbKix8PyykaCwC2rAhPIShOPuNoYNib9Muq3_i6TaCygyC8qOIcbCafGIQVu9SECyjl_IJXVKzNXndys-08qAZHSjg/s1600/IMG_1068.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-BaWer0bUmyUVoP67zAnCRyiMgOz0Fd-AAARO64kqxzn97sYWOnbKix8PyykaCwC2rAhPIShOPuNoYNib9Muq3_i6TaCygyC8qOIcbCafGIQVu9SECyjl_IJXVKzNXndys-08qAZHSjg/s320/IMG_1068.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544156147466736162" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;"> couple of good bicycle paths nearby (see my posts about Coastal Cycling Path and the Dezikou River Bike Path) so you can take a spin after you've gotten your fill of bird watching.<br /><br />Because the birds move around, it's impossible to predict where they will be on a given day. But from October to April you can always find some interesting birds here. If you have a camera with a long lens, you can get some great shots of birds here as there is no vegetation to obscure them.<br /><br />To get here, go down the main street of Jiaoxi (road 9) and turn onto the street next to the post office. (The scallion pancake stand on the right is locally famous, by the way. On weekends it attracts long lines.) Turn right at the dead end at the end of the street. Take the first left, after the convenience store and next to the steamed bun shop (which also attracts long lines of customers). Cross over the railroad tracks and just keep going straight for a few kilometers until you see an enormous metal sculpture of a giant shrimp on your right. (This area used to have lots of shrimp farms.) Turn right at the shrimp and cross over the bridge. The street on the other side of the bridge is called Wendi Road 塭底路. The rice paddies on the right side of the street (toward the mountains) constitute the Wendi Wetlands. Just turn off Wendi Road as soon as you can and start to explore the little roads amoung the rice paddies until you find a place with lots of birds.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-81558514066651980462010-11-21T04:30:00.000-08:002010-11-27T01:46:27.625-08:00Xinliao Waterfall 新寮瀑布<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAOQ1DZTDV_wC8C6h8jISARDZkR6fNGs2MpolBAvARPjB-_7hxyTBsRSotx4WC5Ooy8OaxG9qVY54dUhRNkMQjBXbGvENzHWsRfGrJ5K4Ft7aNNYxmtsQfe2HRKWdrx1pFpfCVe0YtL4U/s1600/IMG_1045.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAOQ1DZTDV_wC8C6h8jISARDZkR6fNGs2MpolBAvARPjB-_7hxyTBsRSotx4WC5Ooy8OaxG9qVY54dUhRNkMQjBXbGvENzHWsRfGrJ5K4Ft7aNNYxmtsQfe2HRKWdrx1pFpfCVe0YtL4U/s320/IMG_1045.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541983883318047394" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-family:arial;">This used to be a major tourist destination because of the beautful setting and two scenic waterfalls. Unfortunately, the valley was badly hit by typhoon Parma in 2009, and parts of the trail leading to the waterfall collapsed into the river. Due to the fragile geology of the area, the government has decided not to rebuild the trail for the time being.<br /><br />Officially the trail is closed to the public. However, this being Taiwan, you can go there anyway. In fact it's fairly popular on weekends.<br /><br />As you walk up the trail, you will encounter three barriers which are supposed to keep people out. You can easily walk over or around these and keep going. The trail to the waterfall is short - you can get there in about 15 minutes. There are a couple of spots where you have to watch your step, but most of the trail is ok.<br /><br />The valley is extremely beautiful, and the waterfall is impressive. Of course the size of the waterfall </span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQKVTZdsgfCKA2t5hK-4JLvirI3YQi3eZ0Q7FLKAF0uSie2z2Yx0a8Fmu4id9agM_rM4WOGN8k5ZQ3AtZsNr4RqP4D69A5dFDAlYEE-wbYi5RmyCzM7VrZuqHtzWMnQ2wTkhuhd66N1UI/s1600/IMG_1047.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQKVTZdsgfCKA2t5hK-4JLvirI3YQi3eZ0Q7FLKAF0uSie2z2Yx0a8Fmu4id9agM_rM4WOGN8k5ZQ3AtZsNr4RqP4D69A5dFDAlYEE-wbYi5RmyCzM7VrZuqHtzWMnQ2wTkhuhd66N1UI/s320/IMG_1047.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541983893684395730" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-family:arial;">varies depending on recent rainfall. If you visit after it has been raining, you will get a better show.<br /><br />The observation platform for the waterfall has been washed away by the typhoon. And the trail up to the second waterfall has been blocked by landslides.<br /><br />Given the condition of the trail, I wouldn't recommend going too far out of your way to visit this waterfall. But if you are staying in Luodong, or visiting the trails around Renshan, the waterfall is worth a quick sidetrip.<br /><br />To get here, follow the road to Renshan (see my post). When you get to the parking lots in front of the Renshan Botanical Gardens, just keep going along the road which follows the river until it dead ends in front of the trail entrance.<br /><br /><br /></span></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-28448166156848661692010-11-21T02:34:00.001-08:002011-03-24T05:16:50.537-07:00Jiaoxi Hot Springs 礁溪溫泉<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRwHVbRA55ypevO2f1vkMOj5bYk5T_xFIh6vycxfi7Ohij5f8rkggyXWnIr994N4aew3wBA4lqZ6DnvHYXQnf9nYnlxEIZtSjyIqjQ7jCDqBRVvk_-_caLQFYGX_hejQfULYYy9LpgTL0/s1600/jiaoxi7%252B1.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 236px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRwHVbRA55ypevO2f1vkMOj5bYk5T_xFIh6vycxfi7Ohij5f8rkggyXWnIr994N4aew3wBA4lqZ6DnvHYXQnf9nYnlxEIZtSjyIqjQ7jCDqBRVvk_-_caLQFYGX_hejQfULYYy9LpgTL0/s320/jiaoxi7%252B1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541977213343519554" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Yilan is probably the best place in the world .... except when it rains. Which it does a lot. Unlike Taipei, almost everything worth doing in Yilan is outdoors.So when it rains, Yilan is pretty boring. Fortunately, there's one activity which is perfect for rainy or cold weather - the hot springs in Jiaoxi. Large numbers of people come here from Taipei each weekend during the winter to soak in the hot springs, and the town is dedicated to hot spring tourism.<br /><br />The hotels in Jiaoxi have improved a lot in recent years. The town used to be pretty seedy and the hot spring hotels were associated with prostitution. Even now I hear that if a male visitor stays alone at a cheap hotel, the staff will hint about helping him hire a prostitute. But seedy hotels are on the decline, and some very nice hotels and hot springs have been built in recent years.<br /><br />The hot spring water in Jiaoxi is superb. In Taipei some hot spring areas have been overbuilt and lack enough water, so the spring water can sometimes sit in the pool for quite awhile. Once I went to a hot spring on Xingyi Road in Taipei which had murky water which I thought was pretty unhygenic. Fortunately, this is never a problem in Jiaoxi. The hot spring here produces an enormous amount of water, so water in the pools is constantly flowing and very clean.<br /><br />Most of the hot springs around Taipei are known for their sulfur, so some of them have a pretty strong smell. In contrast, the Jiaoxi spring is almost odorless, but is very high in calcium carbonate.<br /><br />There are basically four ways of experiencing a hot spring in Taiwan: in your hotel room, spa, double room, or communal pool.<br /><br />First, you can stay in a hotel which has hot spring water in the guest rooms. This way you can take a hot spring bath in the comfort and privacy of your own room. Almost all of the hotel rooms in Jiaoxi have hot spring water.<br /><br />Second, you can go to a hotel which has a so-called "spa." In Taiwan this word has a different meaning from English. Here a spa refers to a hot spring which is like a swimming pool. These spas often have water slides and other diversions for kids, and are very popular with families. As these are often in the public areas of hotels, you wear a swimsuit in the spa. If you stay in a hotel with a spa, you can use it for free, but they are almost always open to outside visitors for a fee. Avoid these if you don't like having little kids splash you with hot water.<br /><br />Third, you can rent a private room (<span style="font-style: italic;">tangwu</span> 湯屋). These are usually big enough for two people to enjoy a hot spring together, although you can also rent one for yourself if you're alone. They usually come with a bed so that the couple can "rest" before relaxing in the hot spring. This is the best option if you're bashful. Price and quality vary enormously. You can get one of these rooms in a cheap old hotel for just a a couple of hundred NT, while a double room in the Evergreen Hotel (the best in town) is very luxurious and costs more than NT 1000. You usually get 60 to 90 minutes for your money, although if it's a weekday and business is slow you can ask for more time.<br /><br />Fourth, you can go to a communal pool (<span style="font-style: italic;">dazhongchi</span> 大眾池). This is my favorite. These pools are single sex and everyone soaks in the spring completely naked. While these are very popular in the hot springs around Taipei, people in the other parts of Taiwan seem to be more bashful about being naked with strangers, so there aren't many communal naked pools in other parts of the island. Communal pools usually don't provide towels, so you sould bring a little towel with you (Taiwanese just bring a little hand towel - it doensn't have to be very big.) You can buy little towels in most of the convenience stores in Jiaoxi. Don't feel shy if you aren't a gorgeous physical specimen. Most of the guys in the men's pool have beer bellies, and I'm sure the women's side isn't any better.<br /><br />If you are bathing with strangers in a hot spring, particularly a communal naked pool, it is very important to observe proper hot spring etiquette.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The most important thing is - wash yourself thoroughly before you get in the hot spring!!!</span> I can't emphasize enough how important this is. Not washing yourself off before getting in a hot spring is probably the biggest faux pas you can commit while visiting Taiwan - Taiwanese would find this utterly appalling. In Western culture, this would be akin to deliberately vomiting on someone's living room sofa.<br /><br />When you enter a communal hot spring, there will be a row of low faucets and low stools near the entrance. After you take off your clothes and put them away, you should sit on a stool and wash yourself thoroughly. And I mean very thoroughly - sometimes people sit there for an incredibly long time scrubbing every single crevice and pore. So if anyone is watching, you should make a big show about how carefully you're cleaning yourself, and take your time.<br /><br />This isn't just an arbitrary taboo. Hot springs aren't chlorinated. Since the water temperature is so high, bacteria can breed very quickly if the water is contaminated. So everyone has to cooperate to keep the water clean and safe.<br /><br />There are a few other rules to consider:<br /><br />Take off your shoes as soon as you enter the hot spring. There will be a cabinet or shelf for shoes as you enter.<br /><br />Don't ever get soap or shampoo near the hot spring pool.<br /><br />While you wear a swimsuit in a spa, don't ever wear a swimsuit in a communal naked pool. People consider any sort of cloth to be full of germs which will contaminate the hot spring.<br /><br />Don't get a towel near the pool - Taiwanese suspect towels of being germ magnets. Just leave your towel with your clothes.<br /><br />You should bring a bottle of water or tea. Sitting in the hot water will make you extremely thirsty. (For some reason it also increases the appetite).<br /><br />If you ever take a hot spring bath in a closed room that doesn't have climate control, be sure to open a window. Hot spring water sometimes contains small amounts of poison gas. If you're in a communal spring - don't worry - the management has already taken care of that problem.<br /><br />Don't soak in a hot spring if you're drunk or have heart problems.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-16174502677874278542010-11-21T02:13:00.000-08:002010-11-27T01:41:51.286-08:00Luna Plaza Mall 新月廣場<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9id_R8Ow8XXY8jJCim6LrhaG88DwcL8hxaCZIyyzDmfbAKEhLO84Vufypu7f_vQEVjFqTiuWKdi1-jdUI2auHf6GksGXGQ0I6iD6iRDEKvIYub88cOOVmYkw-YOGnKG_DeqhEvHg-we0/s1600/Luna+Plaza.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 239px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9id_R8Ow8XXY8jJCim6LrhaG88DwcL8hxaCZIyyzDmfbAKEhLO84Vufypu7f_vQEVjFqTiuWKdi1-jdUI2auHf6GksGXGQ0I6iD6iRDEKvIYub88cOOVmYkw-YOGnKG_DeqhEvHg-we0/s320/Luna+Plaza.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541949081473477794" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">No one is going to come to Yilan to shop. However, while you're visiting here you might need to buy something. If so, this is the place to go. Luna Plaza is by far the biggest shopping mall in Yilan county, and it has pretty much everything a traveler needs.<br /><br />On the first floor is a pharmacy that carries basic over-the-counter medicines and personal care products.<br /><br />A Carrefour hypermart is in the basement. You can find necessities, groceries, personal care products, luggage, alcohol, and some products for outdoor activities.<br /><br />On the second floor is a great store called Urban Oasis, which carries a huge selection of supplies for cycling, trekking, and water sports.<br /><br />Eslite Bookstore is on the third floor. Aside from a small section of English books and some English magazines, there is also a section of Chinese books about Yilan. They also have a good selection of books in Chinese about travel in differnet parts of Taiwan.<br /><br />There are a lot of places to eat in the mall. The food court in the basement has cheap eats. Upstairs on the top floor are some decent restaurants serving different kinds of international cuisine. If you're tired of eating Taiwanese food every meal, here you can find Japanese, Korean, Thai, Italian, and other options. You can get coffee on the first floor at Starbucks and Mr. Donut.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0AsSps3rsPocYtOw8y9olN9ss44-vjzH4arvw-V4L0VeHXpLhm2Bv-VI-b4Z7w6nCfdnH0K0qCoZKqK5xjtJ1SjyvpwL-t8vwYI_JxlknBpGMWZv9Cl9V7Wzbo0PYXt2IIM1uJKPa6E/s1600/traffic_map.gif"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 243px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0AsSps3rsPocYtOw8y9olN9ss44-vjzH4arvw-V4L0VeHXpLhm2Bv-VI-b4Z7w6nCfdnH0K0qCoZKqK5xjtJ1SjyvpwL-t8vwYI_JxlknBpGMWZv9Cl9V7Wzbo0PYXt2IIM1uJKPa6E/s320/traffic_map.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541949081279562658" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />The mall is easy to find - it's located in the most central point in Yilan City where all of the major streets converge. There is a website in Chinese:<br /><br />http://www.lunaplaza.com.tw/<br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-70563820899088934672010-10-24T03:50:00.000-07:002010-11-27T01:45:30.275-08:00Renshan Nature Trail 仁山自然步道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_6CXVrS92B1MuUUVJ0y7CYYPkGtWUeOORu-oET0gCXZl7Zun2g2N-JhkeFaeBbyVpo3jK6pNBLSML4rqf3v47iGBAssJFaO0XN27FKsXjE5HD74wHbXu-3jarZq_HYYiBaMcKeCBlsWY/s1600/IMG_0970.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_6CXVrS92B1MuUUVJ0y7CYYPkGtWUeOORu-oET0gCXZl7Zun2g2N-JhkeFaeBbyVpo3jK6pNBLSML4rqf3v47iGBAssJFaO0XN27FKsXjE5HD74wHbXu-3jarZq_HYYiBaMcKeCBlsWY/s320/IMG_0970.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5531570111611558962" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">This is the highest and most isolated portion of a network of hiking trails which go along one side of a little valley southwest of Luodong. The first part of the climb isn't all that impressive - there were dump trucks mining the nearby river for gravel, which can be heard from the trail. And there are also some huge pylons supporting electrical transmission lines. But after half an hour, you're beyond the pylons and gravel mining, and inside a tranquil forest. The forest is quite pretty, and I heard some animals stirring around in the bushes in several places, and saw some feces on the trail. If you're lucky you can probably see large mammals here. There are a lot of tung trees 油桐樹 on the mountain, and these bloom in April and May, which is the best time to visit.<br /><br />The climb up and back takes about 2 hours. The distance is 3.6 kilometers. You're going up pretty much the whole time, to a height of 440 meters, so it's not the easiest trek in Yilan. The path is so so. It varies from just plain dirt to crushed rock held in place with logs. Parts are fine, but other places are a bit rough and some patches need maintenance. The mediocre parts of the trail make the descent a bit slow. If you like, after you reach the peak you can keep going down the mountain on the other side, where the trail eventually connects to the Renshan Botanical Gardens on the other side. (The Botanical Gardens aren't that great.)<br /><br />This isn't the easiest place to find. To get there, you start from downtown Luodong. Take highway 9 south. After you leave town you will see a brown sign pointing the way to Zhongshan Leisure Farm 中山休閒農場. Turn right at the sign. This road is called Yi 30 (宜 30). You have to turn several times - just follow the brown signs to the Zhongshan Leisure Farm. When you get to the farm, start following the brown signs to the Renshan Botanical Gardens 仁山植物園 or the Renshan Nature Trail. Eventually you will turn onto road Yi 34 (宜 34). This will take you to a large parking lot for buses. This is parking for the Renshan Botanical Gardens 仁山植物園, a tourist trap which sometimes attracts a lot of visitors even though it's not that great. On the road leading to the botanical gardens, there are places to eat if you're hungry.<br /><br />To get to the hiking trailhead, stay on the road next to the river and drive upstream. The sign marking the turnoff to the trailhead is no longer there - it looks like it blew away in a typhoon. So you have to </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX7lFUSnuejpiveYLub71DlfuHHk9s87Qqv3OQUxunW9Or1r01G1FGn2ge-DW2R573bvoZygE8C8lWxsCDO5z9QXRCUEiHBV9TBO3lbOYYieDiOtlyxRenb9yF7WDontndHxjMkJ3TiJQ/s1600/IMG_0976.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX7lFUSnuejpiveYLub71DlfuHHk9s87Qqv3OQUxunW9Or1r01G1FGn2ge-DW2R573bvoZygE8C8lWxsCDO5z9QXRCUEiHBV9TBO3lbOYYieDiOtlyxRenb9yF7WDontndHxjMkJ3TiJQ/s320/IMG_0976.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5531570116194037362" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">keep looking to your left whenever you see a little road leading toward the mountain. A large wooden cone, which can be seen from the riverside road, marks the start of the trail.<br /><br />There are three ways to get on to the Renshan trail. I took the shortest route, which goes straight up the mountain. There are two other entrances to the trail - you can get there by walking all the way through the botanical gardens, which connects to the trail leading up Renshan, or you can find another trailhead downstream from the botanical gardens. If you start at one of the other entrances, you will be able to walk for a couple of kilometers in the lowlands before starting up the mountain.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-37814543196287273262010-10-04T04:30:00.000-07:002010-10-04T05:14:47.031-07:00Coastal cycling path 濱海自行車道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Fcm76o2yQnash90317skwNQYrq32bd66LVMtLwI9EFJw9p8fj-Lm_8AtUV6mWvTfP2wMeRYmqJZ83YfzygIPGzO7Yk-D8Q1BbbpD-1PF_bHXrOF_TflVAO58wW_82WwfNC6Zk9Xh_fQ/s1600/IMG_0900.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Fcm76o2yQnash90317skwNQYrq32bd66LVMtLwI9EFJw9p8fj-Lm_8AtUV6mWvTfP2wMeRYmqJZ83YfzygIPGzO7Yk-D8Q1BbbpD-1PF_bHXrOF_TflVAO58wW_82WwfNC6Zk9Xh_fQ/s320/IMG_0900.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524162888804446114" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The dedicated cycling path that runs along the coast of Jiaoxi and Zhuangwei townships is without question the best bicycle route in Yilan. It runs between two rivers, with a total length of 14.5 kilometers. The sand beach is gorgeous and usually empty - most Taiwanese don't like beaches. Along the entire route the condition of the path is excellent. This path used to be a military road where soldiers rode aound in jeeps and patrolled the coast. After martial law was lifted and beaches opened to the public, the government turned the military road into a dedicated bike path. Occasionally a rude fisherman or tourist will drive a car or scooter along the path (even though it's illegal) but the path is usually empty of traffic.<br /><br />There is a barrier running along the entire coast which protects the inhabitants from communist invaders, typhoon storm surges, and tsunamis. For most of the route, the bike path runs along the top of the barrier, although it goes down on one side or the other in places. Because the barrier (and bike path) goes up and down, it provides a variety of scenery and also some good exercise. A round trip ride is less than two hours.<br /><br />The north point of the path is pretty ugly - for the first kilometer you ride past the river flood plain and concrete flood barriers. Then you get some very nice views of the sea and of course Guishan </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYjvZzV-8_d_gu6mcyWGpdi9mXH2wlJEQCgyVFR9UMTh_064AhVu1_iqffxJ1h7pFfJASQQeoQrmliuFhtfhOv5fV-d9BoKiMO02I0ha27mjepbci-m7KbjFixS6oEEfrhmaOoNr2L_xs/s1600/IMG_0902.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYjvZzV-8_d_gu6mcyWGpdi9mXH2wlJEQCgyVFR9UMTh_064AhVu1_iqffxJ1h7pFfJASQQeoQrmliuFhtfhOv5fV-d9BoKiMO02I0ha27mjepbci-m7KbjFixS6oEEfrhmaOoNr2L_xs/s320/IMG_0902.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524162893357776914" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">island. You pass a military base parallel with the town of Dafu 大福. If you want something to eat or drink, you can ride down to the main coastal highway here. There is a 7-11 in the village, next to the police station.<br /><br />Sometimes the bike path is closed in front of the base when soldiers practice firing their big guns over the ocean. A bored-looking soldier stationed on the road will tell you that it's closed. In that case you just have to go over to the coastal highway and ride down the road until you see a little path that leads you back toward the beach.<br /><br />The southern half of the bike path has much more foliage. You can't see the ocean for most of the way here, but you get some shade and the coastal forest is attractive. The path dead ends at the </span><span style="font-family:arial;">point where the Lanyang and Yilan Rivers come together and empty into the ocean. There is a flood plain here which is good for bird watching in winter and spring.<br /><br />The beach is perfect for swimming - it's extremely shallow near<br />the shore, so it's very safe. In most </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1tPNYuddroheZMUXNUB-S8YIUun3OcC8Q5VxmQSWAOnUKNbELHKr7SRuofd4rBO6iVrl5ERi4l6PZIbYROsPLgPTsfuL3SMBTg4VQp8olntIezYxXCxm_xaaRIZ6o0cXbnHcgvUZXM9w/s1600/IMG_0903.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1tPNYuddroheZMUXNUB-S8YIUun3OcC8Q5VxmQSWAOnUKNbELHKr7SRuofd4rBO6iVrl5ERi4l6PZIbYROsPLgPTsfuL3SMBTg4VQp8olntIezYxXCxm_xaaRIZ6o0cXbnHcgvUZXM9w/s320/IMG_0903.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524162898810836146" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">places there aren't any people, so you can go down and enjoy your private stretch of (swimsuit optional) beach. Considering how crowded the beaches are at Baishawan and Feicuiwan, the long empty beach here is an amazing luxury.<br /><br />Watch out for sand drifts. Sometimes lots of sand blows onto the bike path where it runs close to the beach. The local sand is incredibly fine, so it can be very slippery when it accumulates. And once I saw a cobra here - it's the only time I've ever seen a cobra in Taiwan. I came up on it from behind and took it by surprise, and it reared up and hissed at me. It scared me so much I almost fell off my bike. But I've ridden that path many times and only saw a cobra once, so don't let that put you off.<br /><br />You can get onto the bike path in lots of places - there are access roads running from the coastal highway down to the beach along the entire length. For more information see my posting on Yongzhen Beach.<br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-70618365504439644092010-10-02T05:46:00.000-07:002010-10-02T06:21:23.203-07:00Chaoyang Trail in Nanao 南澳的朝陽步道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBFkj9WYNIkd3oRRZZqpaTsu3gbLEJkZ2tHjaulrBOKZrOMcXvU59fAbOu5WLJ1T8s2S1aZm9ZC1gjXIJlViSxc2VN7Gppo9uOOffm3csLtqufsLpsdlrOF0-2rlnoNDlrT5T_-bM1uWg/s1600/IMG_0896.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBFkj9WYNIkd3oRRZZqpaTsu3gbLEJkZ2tHjaulrBOKZrOMcXvU59fAbOu5WLJ1T8s2S1aZm9ZC1gjXIJlViSxc2VN7Gppo9uOOffm3csLtqufsLpsdlrOF0-2rlnoNDlrT5T_-bM1uWg/s320/IMG_0896.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523438040437169554" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">This trail is a short and easy walk up a mountain called Guishan 龜山 (not Guishan island - this is a different Guishan) next to Nanao harbor. Even though you're walking uphill most of the time, it isn't very steep, and the trail is excellent - mostly stairs made from soil and rock held together by large blocks of wood. Because the mountain is next to the sea, there is a spectacular view of the ocean from the top and at various points on the way up.<br /><br />The only bad thing about this trail is that it only goes for about a kilometer. You can go up and back in about an hour, although will surely want to linger at the top and enjoy the sea view. Considering how remote Nanao is, it really isn't worth coming here just for this trail. You should try to do something else in the area while you're here. However, since Nanao is on the road between Yilan and Hualian, this is the perfect stopover.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">I saw lots of mushrooms growing by the side of the trail - many different species. I've never seen so many kinds of weird mushrooms. And next to the train station in town, there was a woman selling </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSRPq2zL88J6MR83whgv6VeuixfsuVHDPV_5GUzPrU8AKhzcJHp81gpH5OezJtOQnGHlQnAab7PpPXHu_NMVzuJHevDpfUd1dfQD8tD2QuIJzTPMlf_UFL0stTa_x5AXRki-kJY2aFwUY/s1600/IMG_0899.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSRPq2zL88J6MR83whgv6VeuixfsuVHDPV_5GUzPrU8AKhzcJHp81gpH5OezJtOQnGHlQnAab7PpPXHu_NMVzuJHevDpfUd1dfQD8tD2QuIJzTPMlf_UFL0stTa_x5AXRki-kJY2aFwUY/s320/IMG_0899.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523438045269133474" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">different types of (presumably edible) wild mushrooms. They seem to be a local specialty.<br /><br />Nanao 南澳 is on the twisty little road between Suao and Hualian. To get there from Hualian, just drive north. From Yilan, take the No. 5 highway south until it ends at Suao. Then follow the signs guiding you toward Hualian. Do NOT follow the signs toward Nanfangao 南方澳. Although Nanao and Nanfangao sound similar, they are in opposite directions. The road toward Hualian is pretty bad - it's just one lane each way, and there are always lots of big gravel trucks driven by insane idiots, so the road is slow, annoying, and dangerous. You're pretty much guaranteed to get stuck behind a slow moving gravel truck, so just relax and enjoy the scenery. The drive from the end of the highway to Nanao will take about 45 minutes. Before you get to Nanao, you will see a set of huge wooden signs on the right directing you toward the Chaoyang trail and other attractions. If you get lost, just head toward Nanao harbor. The start of the trail is well marked, and is right next to the harbor.<br /><br />Another way to get to Nanao is to take the train. The train station is some distance from the mountain, but there is a shop in front of the station (on the right hand side) which rents out bicycles and scooters. Some bike trails around the mountain and surrounding farmland which have been marked out, and it looks like a nice place for a relaxing ride.<br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-11465194718349598422010-09-16T04:40:00.000-07:002010-10-02T06:22:24.968-07:00Marian Mountain Trail 聖母登山步道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ4tQXk5RoXjv6q1g81EkKKyfacyMH9ubRuyrntcrIYqu0dGt0F3KbnnHmi0228RfutUHxWVuotJOk1j4YhOteITfXugAxNnSzTaMMO0oYQ3MU9X9_DKIHdZEyy8c5R4WtlIefoplM6ug/s1600/IMG_0869.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ4tQXk5RoXjv6q1g81EkKKyfacyMH9ubRuyrntcrIYqu0dGt0F3KbnnHmi0228RfutUHxWVuotJOk1j4YhOteITfXugAxNnSzTaMMO0oYQ3MU9X9_DKIHdZEyy8c5R4WtlIefoplM6ug/s320/IMG_0869.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5517487264277161186" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">This is an excellent trail which ascends through a dense rainforest up to a windswept peak about 1000 meters above sea level. Along the way you pass through a variety of micro-climates and see a rich variety of vegetation. Unlike the typical hiking trail in Taiwan, the Marian trail is also a Catholic pilgrimage route. The destination is a large crucifix on a high mountaintop. Although it initially became popular among Catholics, the route is now maintained by the government.<br /><br />This trail is uphill all the way so you will be quite tired when you finished. If you aren't in decent physical condition, you should try an easier path like the nearby Old Paoma Trail, which is fairly flat. Take plenty of water (more than you think you will need), especially in hot weather. The trail ends on a windswept mountain which can be chilly in summer and freezing cold at other times of year. If you are not doing the hike in summer, bring some warm clothing to wear at the peak. And watch out for snakes and hornets. Several signs warn visitors to beware of poisonous snakes, and sure enough I saw a green bamboo viper (青竹絲) slithering across the trail.<br /><br />The main drawback to this hiking trail is that it is some distance from the nearest road. To get to the start of the trail you have to walk for almost an hour or more. However, you start from the Wufengqi Waterfalls park, which allows you to kill two (or more) birds with one stone. You can see the falls, walk the Marian trail, and also enjoy the swimming area and riverside park downstream from Wufengqi. And since the trail is so far from the roads, it gives you a chance to get deep into the mountains and experience some unspoiled scenery. Although the trail takes time to reach, it is still fairly popular because it is so beautiful. Even on weekdays there you will encounter a number of fellow treckers.<br /><br />To get to the trailhead, you can either take the scenic route or else save time by a shortcut through the Wufengqi park. The official path toward the trail starts at the Wufengqi parking lot next to the river downstream from the falls. Walk upstream from the parking lot. The path goes past a pretty riverside park which is extremely popular among families - kids love catching minnows in the shallow water here. Continue upstream and past the swimming area. The trail crosses over a bridge and then continues up a dirt road. After passing along a series of switchbacks up the mountain, you will eventually come to an unusual round Catholic church modeled after the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.<br /><br />To get to the church more quickly, just park as close as possible to the falls, walk past the food and souvenir stands and up toward the falls. Below the second waterfall is a path to the left which goes toward the third waterfall. Instead of ascending to the third waterfall, just keep going straight - this path keeps going along the side of the mountain and right toward the church.<br /><br />Whichever way you get to the church, once you are there you follow the road which runs to the left of the church complex and up the mountain. Above the church is a nice view of Jiaoxi and the ocean. Follow this road (made of dirt and rocks) until you get to the trailhead.<br /><br />If you take the long route all the way from the parking lot, it will take 70 or 80 minutes to reach the start of the trail. The shortcut through the waterfall area will get you there in about 50 minutes.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrlEOSypM6l9VNxkauiawOY5K_W2bXBG5Fdn9fVMwFClULJNE4G3gcbpW15nliy0Hm09lGvdHGFXTnLQxfqSaskDw9BGX_flHAuOIX10Ygad9j9FpbdRuSIdF1m8jf9EIE4A9MaSlqfU8/s1600/IMG_0866.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrlEOSypM6l9VNxkauiawOY5K_W2bXBG5Fdn9fVMwFClULJNE4G3gcbpW15nliy0Hm09lGvdHGFXTnLQxfqSaskDw9BGX_flHAuOIX10Ygad9j9FpbdRuSIdF1m8jf9EIE4A9MaSlqfU8/s320/IMG_0866.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5517487256221560706" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />The Marian trail itself is a little more than 1.6 kilometers long and takes about two hours (or more) to walk up and down - depending on how fast you go. The trail is decent quality - dirt and crushed stone reinforced with logs for most of the way, with stone steps in steep spots. If you don't want to tackle the whole thing, the first 400 meters of the trail are particularly beautiful. This section runs through dense subtropical rainforest beside a rocky stream.<br /><br />After leaving the stream the trail ascends steeply trough the forest. Unfortunately it ends in an anticlimax. The area at the top has been "developed" by Catholics into a place of prayer. This involved building an extremely ugly concrete pond, and rough concrete steps up to an uneven platform with a crucifix on the peak. There is a forlorn little hostel to the side which is used by groups of Catholic visitors who arrange in advance to stay the night. The overall effect is pretty hideous.<br /></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoibsHVFwzHL8ZJxFe5bwVSar2ukiKQpQSFIaxJQEbT7rnv27BtMoG6xbk4p7kQ09-XwZMZxGuDtLz8mwcPxVWKzRfsCCdWYGZpLq7imjgWtr9nIarSZu8GdiJbP1EkS4PMiJZen7apbI/s1600/IMG_0865.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoibsHVFwzHL8ZJxFe5bwVSar2ukiKQpQSFIaxJQEbT7rnv27BtMoG6xbk4p7kQ09-XwZMZxGuDtLz8mwcPxVWKzRfsCCdWYGZpLq7imjgWtr9nIarSZu8GdiJbP1EkS4PMiJZen7apbI/s320/IMG_0865.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5517487251748732850" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">However, when there isn't too much fog, the view from the crucifix platform is amazing. You can see all the way down to the ocean, with a spectacular view of almost the entire Lanyang plain all the way down past Suao. In the other direction, there is a strange landscape of high grassy mountains which extends into the distance toward Taipei county. This is surely one of the most spectacular vistas in Taiwan.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-87286934825054621622010-08-27T05:56:00.000-07:002010-08-27T06:41:01.227-07:00Old Caoling Trail 草嶺古道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin-GA7UeRzPltZEJfp3j1vqWQn2BKSX2Cjf912fFK_cv0NK5n6yymCpLNljjP54IWXzOfXEgY-e9_L8p-16Sc5tEe3NXW3hqUxa8jLMnDfXMRtbiijQf2v69S1t2E_Qp3-dF3CAmg2hok/s1600/IMG_0840.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin-GA7UeRzPltZEJfp3j1vqWQn2BKSX2Cjf912fFK_cv0NK5n6yymCpLNljjP54IWXzOfXEgY-e9_L8p-16Sc5tEe3NXW3hqUxa8jLMnDfXMRtbiijQf2v69S1t2E_Qp3-dF3CAmg2hok/s320/IMG_0840.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5510081700692752930" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">This is one of the most famous trekking trails in Yilan.There are always some people on the trail, but you don't have to worry about crowds. The trail is an old Qing dynasty road which used to be the main route into northern Yilan county. The trail runs from the town of Dali 大理 in Yilan county, through the mountains, and down to a riverside park a few kilometers above Fulong 福隆 beach in Taipei county. The two towns are connected by railroad, so it's very convenient to make a circuit. It is also very accessible from Taipei by train, and makes an excellent day trip for anyone who wants to get out of the city and enjoy nature.<br /><br />There is just one problem with this trail - the trailhead on the Fulong side is several kilometers from the train station, and there isn't any reliable public transportation. So if you come out on this side, you have to walk down the mountain beside a busy road. For this reason, you should definitely start on the Fulong side and finish up at Dali.<br /><br />I suggest you start the trip by taking the train to Fulong. This is easy to reach from either Taipei or Yilan. If you want, you can go to the beach at Fulong, or else rent bicycles and explore the area. There are several kilometers of cycling paths around the town.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfRA715gCZq7Z5eEDLy0PanmXrtTdMXfO2RUmB_GjWfplGsSshizMqfA_naA0czGH8LEUW3aUPPPJmOd-YYopCy_oYA_9u-AZowP_cYzxltKgizEdcGhKI4WUsb6F7V3eHER-7iLNY8FU/s1600/IMG_0842.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfRA715gCZq7Z5eEDLy0PanmXrtTdMXfO2RUmB_GjWfplGsSshizMqfA_naA0czGH8LEUW3aUPPPJmOd-YYopCy_oYA_9u-AZowP_cYzxltKgizEdcGhKI4WUsb6F7V3eHER-7iLNY8FU/s320/IMG_0842.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5510081708996774786" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">When you are ready to start walking, you can get a taxi in front of the train station and go to the trailhead. This is in a pleasant riverside park. If you like, you can go down to the river and go for a swim. The cool water feels wonderful on a hot day, and some stretches of the park are really beautiful.<br /><br />When you're ready, just start walking up the trail. The path is made from large flat stones and is well maintained. At first you will pass through some fields with water buffalo. Then a humid rainforest. The stones get slippery here, so be careful. The trail slopes gently uphill for the first 2/3 of the route. It's not very difficult. You will pass two old inscribed stone tablets, which are major tourist attractions.<br /><br />There are lots of bilingual signs along the way explaining historical facts and introducing the flora and fauna, and maps along the way showing how far along the route you have come.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Eventually the forest thins out and you are walking through a grassy mountain landscape. During the descent down into Yilan, there are spectacular views of the ocean and Lanyang plain.</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp6eybCqFBIsT9-Z7zBGh-FDTc2bPPTYkcEFKJRpZjmSeFqnveQuDSwPGFrq52f0ctB0p453zBUDgTPn5CDOINkIeqFtjJLM2oTMv-S8MocgFKHSOXWLCO4sRXZL7_Rk3TFg9lGaKHbJQ/s1600/IMG_0836-1.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp6eybCqFBIsT9-Z7zBGh-FDTc2bPPTYkcEFKJRpZjmSeFqnveQuDSwPGFrq52f0ctB0p453zBUDgTPn5CDOINkIeqFtjJLM2oTMv-S8MocgFKHSOXWLCO4sRXZL7_Rk3TFg9lGaKHbJQ/s320/IMG_0836-1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5510081717735875266" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />At the Dali end of the trail there is a visitor's center complete with coffee shop, so you can sit down in the air conditioning and relax with a cappucino if you feel like a taste of civilization. From here you can walk down to the main road, turn right, and walk a hundred meters or so down to the train station to get home.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-62714685059372506652010-08-22T07:45:00.000-07:002010-10-29T05:44:51.014-07:00Luodong Night Market 羅東夜市<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqfD520Ft3FmvFZj2W8nHcRGHKJZOoeTekpqYUmb-jxQ9k_awuSB9eOV4gcSNUMC1sNmcCNDHB7wG2FZSKXV-sCJxmhUtjfKsyx5osZgjxhRyy58jbt53lD6nbr1oEoS-Y1LSBRir1acg/s1600/Luodong+night+market.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqfD520Ft3FmvFZj2W8nHcRGHKJZOoeTekpqYUmb-jxQ9k_awuSB9eOV4gcSNUMC1sNmcCNDHB7wG2FZSKXV-sCJxmhUtjfKsyx5osZgjxhRyy58jbt53lD6nbr1oEoS-Y1LSBRir1acg/s320/Luodong+night+market.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5510071849280607858" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">There isn't much to do in Yilan in the evenings - it certainly can't rival Taipei for nightlife. However, one of the biggest and most famous night markets in Taiwan is in Luodong. While the rest of Yilan county closes down after dark, this place starts to come to life. The Luodong night market is always very crowded, and there's a big selection of food as well as the usual night market stuff to buy.<br /><br />It is easy to reach the market. It is right in the center of town on the streets surrounding Zhongshan park 中央公園). After sunset there can be a traffic jam of cars inching toward the parking areas around the market. There is a lot of parking above B&Q, as well as some private lots in the area.<br /><br />To visit the entire market you just walk down all the streets facing the park. Since Taiwanese expect night markets be crowded, some of these little streets have been designed to maximize congestion. The crowd can be dense and sometimes it's impossible to move. If this is too much to take, you can step into the park to recuperate for a few minutes.<br /><br />Of all the night markets I've visited, this one has the longest lines. Even on weeknights, there are long lines at many of the stalls. I don't have to tell you which foods are famous - just see which stands have the longest lines. Those are the famous ones. Local specialties include anything made with scallion, especially different varieties of scallion pancakes (congyoubing 蔥油餅) - thick, thin, stuffed, and fried. They even sell scallion ice cream. There is also an odd local specialty called gaozha 糕渣 - it's made from potato starch, broth, and minced meat, which is mixed together into a dough, cut into pieces, and deep fried. Another local specialty is burou 卜肉 - pieces of deep fried pork. Although Taiwanese usually don't care for mutton, the lamb here is particularly famous. Several stands cook it in different ways - stir fried and in soup. People are willing to stand in shockingly long lines to get a bowl of mutton soup.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-69219901335979475622010-08-19T03:26:00.000-07:002010-10-02T06:27:11.787-07:00Daxi mountain road 宜一線川農路<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieI30TBM6MU635lZ10_5vvz1PLuKp-rJYjJf7EmxA1e9EI5cRH02nJZ7emPwZ9VEpJzcYts426lvK9Pf2ADMFeQ6vFa3FqRSQybATQ1XNqao7xhTy86XX_i7UwShLi08U3fFLeoAmcXug/s1600/IMG_0828.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieI30TBM6MU635lZ10_5vvz1PLuKp-rJYjJf7EmxA1e9EI5cRH02nJZ7emPwZ9VEpJzcYts426lvK9Pf2ADMFeQ6vFa3FqRSQybATQ1XNqao7xhTy86XX_i7UwShLi08U3fFLeoAmcXug/s320/IMG_0828.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5507079403820711506" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">The official name of this road is Yilan Route 1 宜一線. It's a great way to get you deep into the mountains for a scenic drive. The road quickly rises above the ocean and heads west toward Taipei county. It isn't very well known, so this is also a good way to avoid traffic and crowds.<br /><br />The only challenge is finding the road. First you need to drive along the main road heading north of Toucheng to Daxi 大溪 . This is home to Honeymoon Bay, the surfing beach. After you pass the Daxi train station, you will eventually come to a bridge over a little river. Just before you get to the bridge is an old bronze bust of Chiang Kai-shek on a pedestal by the side of the road. Go up the road behind the bust. This passes through a little community of houses and quickly ascends into the mountains. You just keep driving along this road as long as you want. If you keep going, it will take you into Taipei county.<br /><br />Above Daxi are some hiking trails which can be accessed from the road. If you're interested you can park and go for a walk. Otherwise there isn't anything in particular to do. There are a couple of Buddhist temples and farm houses along the way but not much else. The point is to just enjoy the </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2oM6dO_pFxNFAvSTND2NhOqFMjisv9O1vqycqSDCpid7ebu8hLai_7G5TcfRtYDUWo7vNJNhneVW-690rMWFHrpY9W6ZGhNErlWXv6aJx6wWFgDSyZngRowNJuv2X1iIVhjxY6qY5Ro/s1600/IMG_0831.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2oM6dO_pFxNFAvSTND2NhOqFMjisv9O1vqycqSDCpid7ebu8hLai_7G5TcfRtYDUWo7vNJNhneVW-690rMWFHrpY9W6ZGhNErlWXv6aJx6wWFgDSyZngRowNJuv2X1iIVhjxY6qY5Ro/s320/IMG_0831.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5507079412045398914" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">beautiful mountain scenery and cool clean air.<br /><br />After 40 minutes you will come to Hudiao Lake 虎貂潭. You can't see the lake from the road, but </span><span style="font-family:arial;">you will see a police station, then a white tiled building with a parking lot. You can park here and take a walk down to the lake and along the river. The walking trail is extremely well constructed - it's almost too good. The path seems like something you would find in a suburban garden. The riverside scenery here is extremely beautiful. You can swim in the shallower sections of the river, although swimming is (theoretically) prohibited in the deeper parts and the lake. Taiwanese assume that people will instantly drown if the water is more than knee deep. Unlike most swimming spots in the mountains, the water isn't freezing cold because it passes through a series of lakes that warm it up a bit. This makes it very comfortable for swimming.<br /><br />If you keep driving about ten minutes beyond the lake area, </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuvmnh_RfftWpfcpEbDoKBeRXUTEsu6CmE7t1_GdJluhaKbSg4lzvc9yl2ck-p2E7otKNO3BV6d3qgywH9-Vn8fqpLqamBwCX11kPTjRuePmx9PvwoqrajR3_5m-y4mvk43uHwNlOLeoA/s1600/IMG_0832.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuvmnh_RfftWpfcpEbDoKBeRXUTEsu6CmE7t1_GdJluhaKbSg4lzvc9yl2ck-p2E7otKNO3BV6d3qgywH9-Vn8fqpLqamBwCX11kPTjRuePmx9PvwoqrajR3_5m-y4mvk43uHwNlOLeoA/s320/IMG_0832.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5507079420264793490" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">you will come to a pavillion with a view of the sea along the north coast. From here you can keep going down into Taipei county, or else turn back.<br /><br /><br /><br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-16163486004552059312010-08-08T01:15:00.000-07:002010-10-02T06:25:23.061-07:00Houdong River Bicycle Path 猴洞溪自行車道<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXkZvgxPRMTYDi02JZCklwNshObSJYx5UKMB0JoF4IRxYGsAjXQp0B4MLoWEx3BYuy1uF8kH4Ap4a14i1PtTTtyq21ImdqImPFAp6NDOJQBG-1FBZ8Bm44471mt1sinn3E84wv6UhAFu0/s1600/IMG_0811.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXkZvgxPRMTYDi02JZCklwNshObSJYx5UKMB0JoF4IRxYGsAjXQp0B4MLoWEx3BYuy1uF8kH4Ap4a14i1PtTTtyq21ImdqImPFAp6NDOJQBG-1FBZ8Bm44471mt1sinn3E84wv6UhAFu0/s320/IMG_0811.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502959047686407426" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">This is a short but high quality cycling path just to the north of Jiaoxi. I have also seen it referred to as the Shanming 善明 or Ercheng 二城 bike path.<br /><br />The best place to get on the bike path is Road 2 - the main road from Jiaoxi and Toucheng. If you're heading north from Jiaoxi, after you pass the Number 5 highway</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> interchange, you will soon come to a little bridge beside two little temples. These are Fude temple 福德廟 and Ruiyang temple 瑞陽廟. There is a little parking lot between them. Also near the</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> bridge is Yingfeng 迎風 cafe and a concrete pillar erected by the Lions club. An excellent large </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5i47_9Rm4vfk8IBFelPYpkCfhZlmik5fmQ0IMRAC2-H1m-O743Q8DXKzY-DjaFbjr75znCA2yZJ42AyvsQN2ob003YKnvJvumAvuXCtbu5oXrT14uAZZo5NpqlkgqbdkcXmOJoue5UY/s1600/IMG_0801.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5i47_9Rm4vfk8IBFelPYpkCfhZlmik5fmQ0IMRAC2-H1m-O743Q8DXKzY-DjaFbjr75znCA2yZJ42AyvsQN2ob003YKnvJvumAvuXCtbu5oXrT14uAZZo5NpqlkgqbdkcXmOJoue5UY/s320/IMG_0801.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502959023011564514" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">bilingual map standing at the start of the bike path will get you oriented.<br /><br />The bike path follows the river on both sides. The best part of path heads west (upsteam toward the</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> mountains). This is an incredibly wide dedicated bicycle path - bigger and better than a lot of country roads. And the river along this stretch has been beautifully landscaped. To the side of the path are rice paddies and guava orchards. Everything about this streth of the path is wonderful. The only problem </span><span style="font-family:arial;">is - it's really short. If you ride down to the highway underpass and back, it will take less than ten minutes.</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />However, there are a couple of things you can do while you're here. </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6-Hl5mA9AmcraD9FpnR_UfS5nJ_UxqDxfcPEqcx8QGf_Svd9RDFcxFJmU35cuVcAXODEW6biYW0k0kW21D60R9fyOXU1UpYys39wJZr5-C1yuToKB80XuMqhbUReR3-c1YfYx38y2muk/s1600/IMG_0799.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6-Hl5mA9AmcraD9FpnR_UfS5nJ_UxqDxfcPEqcx8QGf_Svd9RDFcxFJmU35cuVcAXODEW6biYW0k0kW21D60R9fyOXU1UpYys39wJZr5-C1yuToKB80XuMqhbUReR3-c1YfYx38y2muk/s320/IMG_0799.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502959013228995970" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />Once you get to the highway, you can park your bike and walk up the stone and concrete path that runs next to the river. This leads to Houdong Waterfall. (see my blog entry) which is well worth the 15 minute walk.<br /><br />Afterwards you can get back on your bike and explore the neighborhood on the other side of the highway overpass. The neighborhood that runs near the mountains has some pleasant parts, as houses alternate with fields.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Head back to the two temples, cross over the bridge, and keep going east (downstream) along the river. This bike path </span><span style="font-family:arial;">is much narrower, but it's in decent shape. The only problem is that every time the path intersects with a street, there are metal barriers to keep scooters off the bike path. Unfortunately, these also block bicycles, so you have to stop and lift your bike over the barrier. It's an odd design, but not a problem.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2XThXECw_TBEIsCRbiy8VHRkz2s6bTPT2q6-KXw2XljZHWYNzmH5z13Yvj05UVLlKU8d7nQ23GMnUAfWQrtWQt7Yoch-NPIquzDjvEteTixIJrvXd7b2mh27Df_s9iPOOa6xRzKmv5pM/s1600/IMG_0807.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2XThXECw_TBEIsCRbiy8VHRkz2s6bTPT2q6-KXw2XljZHWYNzmH5z13Yvj05UVLlKU8d7nQ23GMnUAfWQrtWQt7Yoch-NPIquzDjvEteTixIJrvXd7b2mh27Df_s9iPOOa6xRzKmv5pM/s320/IMG_0807.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502959034243334130" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">This stretch is nice, but not nearly as scenic as the path upstream. Even so, in summer the rice paddies that line river are beautiful. In winter the paddies just empty mud, but you will have a chance to see some migratory birds.<br /><br />Feel free to get off the bike trail and explore the little roads that cut through the rice paddies. The landscape is flat and you won't encounter many cars here, so it's easy cycling.<br /><br />When the bike trail comes to an end, if you like you can get on the little road beside the river and </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR32fx7cBQX_6Zt8FULrBwOHCdaH46zEWRG6kJm2NzVYfw56AqSqrQn-FsTGStAfED33ettbSpnu-47u-yZLIydjIiIg5JhJ35c_RZLKrn7dex3QKg667oUOaGhtOli37wgcJDriAHZtU/s1600/IMG_0809.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR32fx7cBQX_6Zt8FULrBwOHCdaH46zEWRG6kJm2NzVYfw56AqSqrQn-FsTGStAfED33ettbSpnu-47u-yZLIydjIiIg5JhJ35c_RZLKrn7dex3QKg667oUOaGhtOli37wgcJDriAHZtU/s320/IMG_0809.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502959042918159330" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">keep going. This will take you all the way to where the Houdong River merges into larger rivers and eventually to the sea. The landscape becomes steadily less scenic as you pass by industrial areas and fish ponds.<br /><br />If you just do the dedicated bicycle path along the river, the whole route will take less than half an hour. But this path is just the starting point for investigating the surrounding little country roads and rice paddies. You can spend as much time as you want cycling around the area.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-47101913871559772892010-08-06T04:18:00.000-07:002010-10-02T06:26:28.081-07:00Wengyao Roast Chicken 甕窯雞<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVp7K6mjER3aqHHq7n45goP9_82QqUi7zeihFaCbxV7ZymATCIQ7BEoswJYaItJi99rzWw_Vi8-3qjIScptvTHkpnM3VMwyynOzeqoQtaSDC5u6LrfAbGYAwU195H-eU8aUin5pIHJ6dE/s1600/4b13e549ba620.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVp7K6mjER3aqHHq7n45goP9_82QqUi7zeihFaCbxV7ZymATCIQ7BEoswJYaItJi99rzWw_Vi8-3qjIScptvTHkpnM3VMwyynOzeqoQtaSDC5u6LrfAbGYAwU195H-eU8aUin5pIHJ6dE/s320/4b13e549ba620.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502261623768282866" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Although there are quite a few restaurants in Jiaoxi, most of them aren't that great. However, this restaurant is superb. Most people would agree that it's the best food in Jiaoxi. Because the roast chicken here is so delicious, there is always a mob - even on weekdays. On weekends you might not be able to get a table unless you come during off hours.<br /><br />The specialty of the house is chicken which has been slowly smoked over tropical longan wood. This is surely one of the world's great roast chickens. The meat is gently flavored with cumin, an unexpected flavor which isn't what one usually<br />associates with Taiwanese food.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">In addition to the signature roast chicken, there is also a full menu of other dishes. Most people just order a chicken (you have to buy a whole chicken - they don't sell halves), some vegetable dishes, and rice. They offer some unusual local vegetables such as different kinds of seaweed, mushrooms, betal nut flower, and wild vegetables one never sees in the big city. Most of these are cooked Yilan style with lots of "tree nuts" (shuzi 樹子).<br /><br />You order and pay for the meal before you sit down. If you want beer or another beverage, you have to get it yourself and pay for it separately from the main meal. There is free soup available. You have to get it yourself.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim_Zy2dM4Me_fBRghE45mB1pTKAWVuGgBlv1MtCIETQSRVXJrcV9ztTwRzGE9VeZPZGTOJbIdcN5as-zZIl9h1kWPVx9pPcMnf9y6zsXdRe4xPROvzgbmuDY2UPzb3RDXkP8HJXd4dqdQ/s1600/Resize+of+IMGP7520.JPG.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim_Zy2dM4Me_fBRghE45mB1pTKAWVuGgBlv1MtCIETQSRVXJrcV9ztTwRzGE9VeZPZGTOJbIdcN5as-zZIl9h1kWPVx9pPcMnf9y6zsXdRe4xPROvzgbmuDY2UPzb3RDXkP8HJXd4dqdQ/s320/Resize+of+IMGP7520.JPG.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502259835037829906" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">When they bring you the chicken, they will give you two pairs of gloves - one is made of thin plastic, the other is a pair of thick cloth work gloves. First you put on the plastic gloves. These keep your hands from getting greasy. Then you put on the work gloves. These keep you from burning your hands on the hot bird. The chicken is whole, so you have to rip it apart before you can eat it.<br /><br />The restaurant is located on the main road through Jiaoxi just north of the hot spring area. There is a huge red sign with piles of firewood outside. The address is 7 Jiaoxi Road, section 7. There is addditional parking just on the same side of the road north of the restaurant.<br /><br />Here is a link to their website: http://www.0918717288.com/<br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-27018828110964045032010-08-06T03:09:00.000-07:002010-10-02T06:27:28.983-07:00Taoyuan Valley mountain trail (Daxi section) 桃源谷步道 (大溪線)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQqTh8OmI7wWKXOL3XqfM6gkuZv-MxJ8QJ7ggMeY6xWGjhedmDIB7ZG1vAgavJCywou8jQTsvuJ_IUZsTWp0T5-O2IqrTLB9dT8sYFIncTn7JwaPg75QKSNmTG0fKl_yH1xwtfpR5n6Xs/s1600/2741667798_bae038408c_o.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQqTh8OmI7wWKXOL3XqfM6gkuZv-MxJ8QJ7ggMeY6xWGjhedmDIB7ZG1vAgavJCywou8jQTsvuJ_IUZsTWp0T5-O2IqrTLB9dT8sYFIncTn7JwaPg75QKSNmTG0fKl_yH1xwtfpR5n6Xs/s320/2741667798_bae038408c_o.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502254047288894370" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">This is one of the best mountain trails in Yilan. There are actually four trails that meet in Taoyuan Valley 桃源谷. Each one is quite different. The so-called Daxi branch of the trail begins at a spot just north of the town of Daxi 大溪, not far from the Honeymoon Bay surfing beach. The trailhead is just 800 meters north of the Daxi train station, so you can easily get here by train from Taipei. (Just make sure you go to the right Daxi and don't end up in Taoyuan county.)<br /><br />The trail is easy to find. There is a large parking lot at the bottom marked by a conspicuous brown sign. In fact the entire trail is very well constructed and maintained. It is lined with large paving stones the whole way, and occasionally you will come across a stone bench or pavillion. Several large maps along the way will let you know where you are, and milestones mark the distance along the trail. There are even restrooms. It's impossible to get lost - you just follow the stone path onward and upward.<br /><br />This trail is moderately challenging, so you shouldn't attempt it unless you're in decent shape. You don't have to be an athlete to finish it, but it's 10 kilometers round trip and you're walking up steep stone steps much of the way, so you'll be really tired when you're finished. The trail takes at least 4 hours round trip - longer if you linger or you're a slow walker.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6bHSCTxIhv7zVawK2-19UVYMwL4vQik_6LWohNwih8d5P12_dV_UNTJ-NkyCkE032Ek7CIUDSJRLKJYwypUaf3Zg5x9-Mn_hEnmX97WnIeLHr7LUq9qa2jYta80Qe0mARpmvhCBtKYy4/s1600/IMG_0790.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6bHSCTxIhv7zVawK2-19UVYMwL4vQik_6LWohNwih8d5P12_dV_UNTJ-NkyCkE032Ek7CIUDSJRLKJYwypUaf3Zg5x9-Mn_hEnmX97WnIeLHr7LUq9qa2jYta80Qe0mARpmvhCBtKYy4/s320/IMG_0790.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502254059509426226" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Nevertheless, this trail is well worth the effort. Along the way you pass through a series of varied landscapes and microclimates. At the bottom the vegetation is sub tropical rainforest. Then you pass through low mountain vegetation with great views of the sea and Guishan Island. After that you enter the mountains, and there are impressive green mountain vistas on either side. Then you pass through a series of lush fern forests. Finally you find yourself in an idyllic alpine landscape at the top. The highest point is about 550 meters above sea level.<br /><br />Besides being a living encyclopedia of Yilan flora (including lots of wild rhododendrons and some strange mushrooms), there is also some fascinating animal life - besides the usual butterflies, lizards and birds, I also saw a beautiful green snake and two muntjacs.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqxBCxNZRcvDv7pqQNssPdDuGbCA1bPsBTSeKsXoTYJOO5rt-OJ1aZwv-tToj7x8dZ9BS6aCc7kri8_SU7B2JkEvmQFlUKLHaEMMnUd1CGmt4rWvxampHF9RQ6UmAsg-hLWCAEEO9DLbU/s1600/IMG_0786.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqxBCxNZRcvDv7pqQNssPdDuGbCA1bPsBTSeKsXoTYJOO5rt-OJ1aZwv-tToj7x8dZ9BS6aCc7kri8_SU7B2JkEvmQFlUKLHaEMMnUd1CGmt4rWvxampHF9RQ6UmAsg-hLWCAEEO9DLbU/s320/IMG_0786.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502254057642317330" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The first 45 minutes of the trail are the hardest. You're climbing up steep stone steps almost the whole time. After you reach the top of the first peak, you walk up and down along mountain ridges the rest of the way, so it's much easier going. At points the trail goes through extremely humid rainforest where the stones are covered with very slippery moss. Be careful! In these places it's a good idea to avoid the mossy stones and just walk on the dirt beside the trail.<br /><br />If you're a glutton for punishment, there is an undeveloped dirt trail which runs beside the main stone path. As you walk up the stone steps at the beginning, you will eventually see an unmarked trail to the right leading off into the woods. This is an alternate trail for those who want to walk along the forest floor.<br /><br />You will come across some stone barriers as you approach the end. These keep feral water buffalo from wandering down the mountain. The buffalo aren't domesticated, so be careful. Keep your distance and don't startle them.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AVVPwhJYtQnshtdqYqam2e8wNOdqXEFFMxLPzvn-eWvHCSFYpkL6roJvwxs6h5HJHcGTpatDfwnbZ4t_yVVOGEcwwsPWDZQFNBTHAAZi9zqtV3MQEXvYOw0W-BcdXaBqapHGGDOo0sI/s1600/IMG_0793.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AVVPwhJYtQnshtdqYqam2e8wNOdqXEFFMxLPzvn-eWvHCSFYpkL6roJvwxs6h5HJHcGTpatDfwnbZ4t_yVVOGEcwwsPWDZQFNBTHAAZi9zqtV3MQEXvYOw0W-BcdXaBqapHGGDOo0sI/s320/IMG_0793.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502254065714910866" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Follow the trail until the stone path comes to an end. Here you will find yourself in an amazing alpine meadow, lazily observed by some grazing water buffalo. This is the crest of a ridge above Taoyuan Valley. It's hard to believe you're right above a subtropical rainforest - the scene seems more like Switzerland than Taiwan.<br /><br />The Daxi trail meets the Caoling branch of the Taoyuan trail here. If you want a longer walk, you can keep going along the Caoling branch. A round trip back to Daxi would be 18 kilometers and would take all day. Alternatively, you could follow the Caoling branch of the Taoyuan Valley trail to the Old Caoling Trail and then either walk down the other trail to Fulong or back down into another part of Yilan.<br /><br />Because this trail is more challenging than most, unless you happen to run across a hiking club you don't have to worry about crowds. I went on a weekday and didn't come across a single person.<br /><br />The temperature at the top is much cooler than the bottom. I climbed up on a hot August day, and it was surprisingly cool and misty at the top. If you go any time of the year but summer, be prepared for cold conditions on the peak - you will need warm clothes. And since this is a 10 kilometer walk, be sure to bring lots of drinking water.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-52471601702679776342010-08-04T06:36:00.000-07:002010-10-02T06:26:53.379-07:00Tangweigou Hot Spring Park 湯圍溝溫泉公園<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpiL9KI8fJ99u9l4VfPMe1Bxw7wX4yN2wm2jloz95E62uLhokfF4kjOV10Yoby-M2THxZyX9gWszgbbiHoIuO4b8G2zRd4ACbT3nspn-Fh4Sq-ApodM3OGpvp7RkT9eS9zdLRzTW-Aows/s1600/m31448_3.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 187px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpiL9KI8fJ99u9l4VfPMe1Bxw7wX4yN2wm2jloz95E62uLhokfF4kjOV10Yoby-M2THxZyX9gWszgbbiHoIuO4b8G2zRd4ACbT3nspn-Fh4Sq-ApodM3OGpvp7RkT9eS9zdLRzTW-Aows/s320/m31448_3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501557564962352706" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">This long thin park in the middle of Jiaoxi, not far from the train station, is the source of the famous local hot spring. An open stream of hot spring water runs through the park, and both tourists and locals come here to soak their feet in the hot spring water and chat. There are also several pools for foot soaking. Unlike the hot spring park in Beitou, this water is clean (the water running through the park in Beitou is discharge from the surrounding hot spring - you might occasionally see a turd floating downstream). You can walk upstream and see where the hot spring comes out of the ground, so the water here is pristine.<br /><br />Besides foot soaking, in the evenings people gather here to walk along the boardwalk which runs </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFisYqGmuDKNX0BmTv2JTMgjIgaAjdp4uTGVPnUtJDOm_1IzsrS7lP0er0pu2LMhijhzYPTenh7j3oFvzuhFL9Y9I7soRYyB9LgMJUNBAI5lZpSKQSS4sMfHM9cFtfRaqB5BeGH11F-Y/s1600/m31448_4.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 182px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFisYqGmuDKNX0BmTv2JTMgjIgaAjdp4uTGVPnUtJDOm_1IzsrS7lP0er0pu2LMhijhzYPTenh7j3oFvzuhFL9Y9I7soRYyB9LgMJUNBAI5lZpSKQSS4sMfHM9cFtfRaqB5BeGH11F-Y/s320/m31448_4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501557566743552034" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">the length of the park. There are a few vendors to the side where you can buy local produce (guavas, kumquats, and so on) and also some snacks. On weekdays this park is fairly quiet, but on weekends there are quite a few people here. The number of vendors increases considerably and on one side the place becomes a bit like a night market.<br /><br />There are two places to bathe in the hot spring water in the park. One is the decrepit old shack in toward the west end of the park. This is a communal naked hot spring for men only. In fact, the only people who go here are old lmen from Jiaoxi. It's free, but that's the only good thing you can say about this place. The patrons are pretty creepy and the unpleasant atmosphere scares off most people. But if you're absolutely determined to get a free hot spring bath, this is the place.<br /><br />The other option is the new communcal hot spring building on the far side of the park. This is an extremely beautiful building. In fact, it's something of an architectural gem. The interior is all wood - even the hot spring pools are lined with wood.<br /><br />Admission is only NT 80, and senior citizens (over 65) get in for just NT 40. There are two communal naked pools - with men and women on different sides. Considering how nice this place is, the low admission price is a huge bargain. As a result, this hot spring is much too popular. On cold days you can expect a crowd, even during the week. On weekends don't even think about it - this place will be bursting at the seams.<br /><br />Another problem is that unlike every other communal hot spring I've ever been to, the temperature isn't centrally regulated. Instead the patrons can determine how much hot and cold water goes into pool. There's ALWAYS at least one crazy old guy who likes his bath boiling hot, so the temperature is usually 43 degrees - far beyond most people's comfort zone. I brought an American friend here who had never been to a hot spring before. He ended up on the side of the pool curled up in a fetal position like a burn victim.<br /><br />At night, there are two cafes at each end of the park. The one of the east serves both drinks and </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVUqHS2FctbhrDfBa1go9BVIWlqIH7uG1Ps-IMPquZs1V1tHDTT9DGDTxdT__hyphenhyphenwWoOEzMvYYq7WI7UWPhxI5tNgxtGd9qTNLuH6p5EktJ-dVfGZZHD-9jh-vf4R6niIys7ELVz7JaRtI/s1600/IMG_0778.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVUqHS2FctbhrDfBa1go9BVIWlqIH7uG1Ps-IMPquZs1V1tHDTT9DGDTxdT__hyphenhyphenwWoOEzMvYYq7WI7UWPhxI5tNgxtGd9qTNLuH6p5EktJ-dVfGZZHD-9jh-vf4R6niIys7ELVz7JaRtI/s320/IMG_0778.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501557574283585474" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">food - mostly Yilan specialties made with the local scallion and other vegetables. The one on the west serves only drinks. However, both serve freshly brewed microbrewery beer. I've tasted the dark malt, which I liked. I wasn't crazy about the wheat beer. I thought it had a funny taste. I have yet to try the others beers. One of their beers is brewed with seaweed, which I haven't dared to try. If you've always wanted to try seaweed flavored beer, this is your big chance.<br /><br />In the evenings, there is often a singer with guitar singing old Taiwanese songs for tips at one cafe or the other. Even on the hottest days, there's a cool breeze here in the evening. A foot bath, beer, and quiet music is a pleasant way to end the day.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-287915753495086788.post-32140049290653977542010-08-03T06:24:00.000-07:002010-10-02T06:28:07.550-07:00Da Jiaoxi 大礁溪<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnj7ngjK9NdEP7JaY4qw_L9ZHQeRY4Zs7Q9a8D_VI3bc2hVdMwqbHusd3XKbdS-IAPIy7UC09ROU7C9S25cIvkvrjOcHVd2LneK1_6Sl8Eyf3cAkyZQpRr0CHnFVN25-0Ob7sAazx-_MU/s1600/IMG_0771.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnj7ngjK9NdEP7JaY4qw_L9ZHQeRY4Zs7Q9a8D_VI3bc2hVdMwqbHusd3XKbdS-IAPIy7UC09ROU7C9S25cIvkvrjOcHVd2LneK1_6Sl8Eyf3cAkyZQpRr0CHnFVN25-0Ob7sAazx-_MU/s320/IMG_0771.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501185603551787586" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">The name of this place is misleading. Even though it's called Da Jiaoxi ("Big Jiaoxi"), it's not in Jiaoxi township. In fact this area is just south of Jiaoxi, over the border in Yuanshan,closer to the town of Zhenshan 枕山. Da Jiaoxi is a pretty valley covered with fruit orchards, mostly guava trees. There are some guest houses and other facilities for tourists. People come here for a scenic drive down the little country road through the middle of the valley,<br /><br />The road you want is Yilan Road 13. First you need to go to the town of Zhenshan 枕山 northwest of Yilan City. Unfortunately, the start of Road 13 isn't well marked. One way to find it is to look for the big temple in the middle of town. Road 13 begins on the left side of the temple. You can also look for signs pointing the way to Huideng High School 惠燈高中, a private school on this road.<br /><br />Once you're on Road 13, just keep driving and enjoy the pretty scenery. You might want to stop and buy something from the vendors by the side of the road. Of course you should buy some guavas. You can also buy homemade country-style preserved foods such as kumquats pickled in heavy syrup and femented black beans.<br /><br />There are a couple of places to have a cup of coffee or tea where you can sit outside and enjoy the bucolic scenery.<br /><br />There are several things to do on this road. The first stop can be reached by going down the road </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB35j0TINrsA7sLD9-KUnx5pIUX9GlK3wWIQBYiuFIHMXqqo0wFDl5TNRAyn5fZdwaFL0SD_9QqH-79MSSDrSljKuGc4uwhbS1k02IZqkxShWiESI0EOhfEPhYrIaQKVVC_8YRmjgBw2k/s1600/IMG_0769.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB35j0TINrsA7sLD9-KUnx5pIUX9GlK3wWIQBYiuFIHMXqqo0wFDl5TNRAyn5fZdwaFL0SD_9QqH-79MSSDrSljKuGc4uwhbS1k02IZqkxShWiESI0EOhfEPhYrIaQKVVC_8YRmjgBw2k/s320/IMG_0769.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501185604298989666" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">to the left of Hushan Elementary School 湖山國小. This takes you to a pleasant little lake called Wanglongpi 望龍埤, also known as Ruanpi 軟埤. You can either walk around the lake or else have a drink at the little cafe.<br /><br />Head back to the elementary school. On the right side of the school is a little trail marked by a sign which reads "tiaofu budao" 挑夫步道. This trail leads up the mountain. Although well constructed, when I visited it had been mostly reclaimed by the forest. You can still walk to the top if you want to spend 15 minutes pushing your way through weeds. But it isn't worth the trouble. If the trail has been cleared, however, this would be a good chance to take a short walk through the forest. .<br /><br />The final stop is at the end of the Road 13. Continue down the road, over the bridge, and follow the </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpM0UL_G5Zem5MoQ-zd3yClMm80PSfaBKby8SB6nt0xtCAfhzPqvT_V3qkJhPlZYgOHYSgulj9Pj8aWSIg4rWpezgeeAOKEjyNR5RVl5dylsdZModguQCkwCaBVmrajjxRXuHbRLVEZAo/s1600/IMG_0755.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpM0UL_G5Zem5MoQ-zd3yClMm80PSfaBKby8SB6nt0xtCAfhzPqvT_V3qkJhPlZYgOHYSgulj9Pj8aWSIg4rWpezgeeAOKEjyNR5RVl5dylsdZModguQCkwCaBVmrajjxRXuHbRLVEZAo/s320/IMG_0755.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501185619127106914" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">road as it veers to the left. You will see lots of signs pointing the way to a guesthouse called Left Bank (Zuo'an 左岸). Just beyond the guesthouse is a swimming spot where people go to splash around in the mountain stream. There isn't any shade here and the water isn't deep, so I wouldn't recommend stopping here unless it's a cloudy day or you have a big beach umbrella. But if you're prepared and just want to enjoy the beautiful natural setting, it's a nice place to spend the day. Since the water is shallow, it's a safe spot to bring small children.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0